
With the strike of a match, the wood-burning fireplace in our suite leapt to life. A knock on the door delivered decadent hot chocolate to accompany the crackling fire. This was the perfect way to end a day of country pleasures at Blantyre, a summer home turned Relais & Châteaux hotel in the Berkshires.
This Tudor manor is bringing back the style and grace of the Gilded Age, and after only a few hours, I was enchanted. Blantyre offers a rare opportunity to engage with the past and become immersed in the delights of a bygone era.
The Berkshires in western Massachusetts has attracted elite visitors since the 19th century. Along with the Vanderbilts and the Carnegies, one lesser-known businessman named Robert Paterson built his summer house here, naming it Blantyre after his mother's ancestral home in Scotland. Current owner Ann Fitzpatrick Brown is the mastermind behind the restoration of the Paterson's 'summer cottage' – handpicking every fabric, wallpaper, and mirror with flawless vision. From the moment I drove through the gates, I knew this was the type of history lesson I would enjoy: one that is hands on.

Blantyre afternoon tea
I was reminded of the fairy tales of my childhood as we passed under the portico, ventured through the front door and into the main hall where the air was spiked with flowers. Each member of staff has mastered the role of gracious host, and we were immediately welcomed to our new home in the Berkshires. Where so many hotels fail – Blantyre shines. From the moment we climbed the red-carpeted stairs, the staff succeeded in personal attention without all the fuss. It is easy to see that the staff loves Blantyre too – and especially the Paterson Suite.
Stepping inside, my Gilded Age fantasy was complete. Beyond the formal sitting area and colossal four-poster bed is an intimate room with wood-burning fireplace and writing desk tucked into a bay window. Despite all of this grandeur, part of Blantyre’s charm is its ability to immediately set its guests at ease. Within minutes of arrival, we were lounging on plush couches nibbling on cheese and fruit with a glass of red wine in hand and classical music filling the 1,042 square feet of the Paterson Suite.
Potting Shed Spa
Before dinner we indulged in the hotel's Potting Shed Spa. We soaked in the hot tub as a fire roared in the stone fireplace. Dusk settled into the pine trees outside and we read the weekend newspapers in fluffy robes. This country cottage provides something invaluable: an atmosphere that is free of interruptions. Without distractions, life's simple pleasures – from refreshing lemonade to a glass of fine wine – somehow taste even more sublime.
Dressing for dinner, I could hear faint piano music drifting up from downstairs. These touches are part of an old world refinement that is hard to find in America, but Blantyre firmly grasps. As we toasted glasses of champagne, I could hardly believe that this European-style retreat was less then 3 hours drive from New York City. Delicate canapés teased at the chef’s talents, and without hesitation, we chose the five-course surprise menu. After catching a glimpse of what this Relais and Chateaux Grand Chef could do during his television appearances, I couldn’t wait for his surprise menu to begin.
Blantyre Dining Room
Entering the dining room, it is almost impossible not to envision elegant dinner parties from the era before World War I. In this tradition, Blantyre requires a jacket and tie for men, secretly pleasing women who can pack along a cocktail dress or two. Sommelier Luc Chevalier paired two wines with each course of our meal, showcasing his knowledge of the 19,000 bottles in Blantyre's cellar. The evening's procession of cuisine included divine sea scallops, butter-poached lobster, beef tenderloin, an artisanal cheese plate, and finally a trio of chocolate.
Within the walls of this manor, a tradition of entertaining is thriving. Ann Fitzpatrick Brown curated every detail with such precision, that guests might think Blantyre was preserved from the Gilded Age. This is not so – in fact there is only one piece of original furniture in Blantyre – the rest has come to life from Ann’s imagination since she became the 8th owner of the property in 1980. Every individual has their own motivations for travel – one of mine happens to be the opportunity to live in someone else's shoes. At Blantyre’s dinner table, this wish was granted.
Blantyre exterior in winter
An hour later, the fire in our suite had reduced to glowing coals and the silence of Blantyre ushered in blissful sleep. This writer felt right at home in a suite full of books, which Ann says ‘warm a room’. Every object here has a story, from a chair in the Paterson Suite that declares ‘Marilyn Monroe Sat Here’ to a book with Babe Ruth's signature. A glance at the guest book reveals how deeply Ann has touched the lives of her guests. One couple wrote that after celebrating their 40th anniversary here, they felt 'as if they were dating again'.
The morning after a fantastic meal, I am always craving more indulgence at breakfast. Downstairs in the sun-filled observatory, tables adorned with orchids encouraged us to enjoy a leisurely meal. As we looked over the menu, I couldn’t resist nibbling the chef’s signature blueberry muffins. Poached eggs with house-smoked salmon had exactly the rich touch I craved, but I left a little room to taste dishes we would prepare with the chef during an afternoon cooking course.
Conservatory Breakfast Room
Christopher Brooks is a quintessential chef: passionate about food and open to discussing the philosophy of his cuisine. During a cooking course he let me in on a few secrets about how to create his elegant country house cuisine. Chef Brooks taught us the trick to make a perfect omelette, and gave me tips on how to prepare flawless fish at home. After a few too many spoonfuls of risotto with carrot-ginger puree, we thanked the chef for his time and generosity, and hit the one-mile trail around the property for an invigorating stroll.
A hot stone massage and soak in the hot tub later, it was time to eat again. At 8pm, we took a seat in front of the fire to soak up the atmosphere of the music room. On this Monday evening, we enjoyed one of Blantyre's greatest winter pleasures: private dining. This serene meal, with no distractions or noisy neighbors, revealed to me why Ann calls winter her favorite season at Blantyre. Since the hotel was winterized in 2005, the tennis courts have been flooded each year to create an ice skating rink, a winter wonderland under the stars. I can’t wait to return and lace up my skates, with the glowing cottage in the background and promise of warming up afterwards in my favorite chair by the fire.
Blantyre ice rink
INSIDER TIPS:
• Not only does Blantyre welcome guests into the dining room on a nightly basis, but wine dinners are held for connoisseurs and curious wine drinkers alike. A special meal is designed around featured wines for the evening. Click on this link to see upcoming
winter wine dinners.
• Guests that aren't attending a wine dinner can also arrange a tour of the wine cellar during their stay.
• Blantyre is well known for its black tie New Years gala, complete with sleigh rides on New Years Day.
• Guests more interested in sampling the food than learning how to cook it, can request kitchen a gourmet picnic basket to accompany a hike around the grounds.
To read more about the hotel and for booking contact information, please see Luxury Travel Magazine's Hotel Profile for:
Blantyre
Blantyre sleigh rides
Jessica Colley is a freelance travel and food writer based in New York City when she isn't on assignment. She blogs about travels near and far at
www.thegreatamericantraveldream.com