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Classic Capri: A Vacation that Never Goes Out of Style

- Raquel Baldelomar

Since the days of the Roman Emperors, the majestic isle of Capri has seduced visitors with its charms.

Dazzling villas dotting the hillsides, endless sunshine, and the aristocratic social scene have earned the island the reputation as Italy's most glamorous seaside escape. Approaching the island by hydrofoil, the island's rock cliffs dramatically jut out of the aquamarine sea. With a perfect mix of history, natural beauty, and style -- Capri is the ideal setting for a romantic getaway.

Our vacation begins in Capri's Marina Grande after the 40-minute jaunt from Naples. The hotel porter collects our luggage and we hop onto the funicular traveling 450 feet above the harbor to the main square. As we step into Piazza Umberto I (affectionately called 'piazzetta' by locals) the rhythm of Capri is revealed. Couples enjoy an afternoon scoop of gelato in a flavor we soon learn is called 'bacio' – Italian for kiss. The small square is full of cafés and Michael and I are lured to a table for an aperitif. We toast our arrival with a glass of Prosecco in Capri's famous outdoor living room.

Located between the Bay of Naples and the Tyrrhenian Sea off the Sorrentine peninsula, Capri is just four square miles with two townships. While Capri town and Anacapri get the most attention from visitors, there are also historical attractions and challenging hikes. Anxious to see more, we leave behind the bustle of Capri town for the more serene Anacapri – and one of the best views on the island.



Hotels in secluded Anacapri specialize in romance. Far away from the boats of day-trip tourists, this part of the island is reserved for jetsetters. Two miles (3km) away from Capri town, Anacapri can be reached via a quick taxi ride or an adventurous climb on the ancient stairway. The Phoenician Steps are a challenge, but your adventurous spirit will be rewarded with fuchsia bougainvillea blooming along the paths. At the top of the 800 steps, we reach Anacapri.

From our private balcony at the Caesar Augustus Hotel, the Bay of Naples was glowing in the light of a pink sunset. The balcony extended over the cliff, giving an illusion of floating 1,000 feet above the sea. This luxurious getaway is the former summer palace of a Russian Prince, Emmanuel Bulbak, who immersed himself in the study of history and philosophy. Today, guests indulge in leisure pursuits from massages in the fragrant gardens to sampling flavors of the island on the terrazza.



The view from our balcony left us with a craving to explore the island by boat. The following morning, the concierge arranged a private boat and captain. We began our journey by seeing the rock arch, Arco Naturale, a stunning work of nature's art. Many of the most enchanting stretches along the coastline are completely inaccessible on foot. We reached secluded bays and spent the early afternoon swimming and sunbathing far from the crowds on the island's pebble beaches.

The day's pleasures continued after our swim at a restaurant that featured fresh, local ingredients. The concierge at Caesar Augustus recommended we try the island's signature dish at Aurora, located in the center of Capri on Via Fuorlovado. The classic salad, insalata Caprese, combines creamy mozzarella, vine-ripened tomatoes, and fresh basil. Owners Gennero and Lucia serve up delicious traditional dishes including fresh-caught fish, pasta, and pizza.



Revived after our lunch, we decided to investigate the legendary shopping of Capri. The main shopping streets of Via Camerelle, Via V. Emanuele and Via Le Botteghe are home to a Who's Who of international high-end designers including all the Italian labels like Gucci, Prada, Bulgari and Dolce & Gabbana. Sunglasses, silk dresses, and handbags will lure you off the streets and straight into the dressing room. I picked up a pair of the island's famous handmade sandals from Canfora, once worn by Jackie O., and I was ready to see some of the island's sights.

From the center of town we strolled along the narrow medieval alleyways, filled with hanging baskets of fragrant flowers, towards the Faraglioni Rocks. Dramatically protruding 360 feet out of the sea, this is one of the most iconic sights in Capri. After plenty of activity, we were ready to spend an afternoon poolside. If you'd rather keep sightseeing, there are many more attractions to explore including the art-rich Villa San Michele or Villa Jovis, the imperial residence of Roman Emperor Tiberius who ruled from there between AD 27 and AD 37.



After a few nights at the Caesar Augustus, we wanted to try a hotel that is even more private. At the historic 8-room Villa Le Scale we experienced how the Italian elite live, just steps away from the main piazza in Anacapri. Other luxurious lodging choices include the ancient palazzo Capri Palace Hotel and Spa for an unspoiled and secluded location and JK Place, which overlooks the Marina Grande from a panoramic terrace. If you get the urge to sunbathe beyond your hotel pool, lidos in Capri are popular places for a dip in the sea.

Our last evening in Capri, on the suggestion of the owner of the Caesar Augustus Hotel, Paolo Signorini, we climbed aboard the chairlift for a ride to the top of Monte Solaro. The 12-minute journey brought us 589 meters (1,940 feet) above sea level, providing exhilarating views of the entire island and the surrounding Bay of Naples. The hillside beneath our dangling feet was covered in yellow wildflowers, and different hues of blue and green spread across the sea.



After descending back to Anacapri, we took a seat on the terrace at Agora Resto Wine Bar. While many restaurants on the island specialize in fresh fish and lighter fare, Agora served Argentinian Angus served with six sea salts to enhance the rich flavor. An extensive wine cellar was full of temptations, and the waiter suggested a delicious Cabernet Sauvignon that complemented the meat perfectly. Over a frozen glass of Limoncello, we were already contemplating a return trip.

The island settled back into its nightly routine after the sun had set. Locals and guests lingered over a late dinner, or enjoyed an extra cocktail beneath the stars. An after-dinner stroll proved that Capri has maintained its allure throughout the years – and this is even stronger once the day-trippers depart on the last ferry. Strolling back to the hotel hand in hand, we realized that the legend about the seductive nature of Capri is still very much alive.



Getting There:

-Taxi from Naples International Airport to the Port of Naples: 40.00 EUR. Negotiate the fare with the taxi driver before you depart.
-From Port of Naples to Capri, two options: Ferry or Hydrofoil. Ferries operate every 90 minutes, for a 80 minute journey at 10.00 EUR per person. The Hydrofoil is a 40 minute journey, and coasts 17,00 EUR per person. (Luggage fee of 2,00 EUR per large luggage item, paid at time of ticket purchase.)
- Ferries and hydrofoils are available from a variety of places along the coast including Sorrento, Positano, Amalfi, Castellammare, Salerno and sister islands of Ischia and Procida.
-website for ferry schedules: http://www.capri.com/en/orari-traghetti


 

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