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Weekend Away: Santa Fe

- Raquel Baldelomar & Deb Abraham

Santa Fe, New Mexico sizzles with an exotic blend of colors, aromas and flavors. Spanish and Native American influences converge in the city's art, history and exhilarating passion for life.

My base of operations is The Inn of Five Graces, a "one of a kind" retreat in the historic city center. The original owners, Ira and Sylvia Seret, reconfigured what were once separate properties into a labyrinth of 13 suites around interlocking adobe courtyards. They furnished the Inn with antiques and rugs acquired during a decade of living in Afghanistan and running an international import business, the legendary Seret & Sons. The transition from one desert world to another is seamless.

Today the Inn is run by the Garrett Hotel Group and is a member of the prestigious Relais & Chateaux, continuing the Serets' commitment to personalized luxury and service. Upon arrival, general manager, Jennifer Hoback bids me a warm and gracious welcome. I am encouraged to feel at home and feel remarkably so in a place once named "Seret's 1001 Nights."



I decide to begin my stay by taking the five-minute stroll into historic Santa Fe. Passing colorful traditional blankets displaying the artisan jewelry of Native Americans, I make my way to the renowned gallery scene. Santa Fe has much to offer art lovers year-round, but the event of the year is the International Folk Art Market in July. As the third largest art market in the U.S. (after NYC and LA), Santa Fe has expanded from a center for Native American art to a center for contemporary art.

Art collectors will be impressed by the variety of galleries along Canyon Road. From antique Native American art and traditional New Mexican furniture to contemporary painting and sculpture, the galleries of Canyon Road strike a balance between fine art and more modest offerings. My favorite of the afternoon is the Nedra Matteucci Galleries. The world-class sculpture garden featuring monumental works of stone and bronze is a highlight.

Returning to the Inn, I join fellow guests for a wine and cheese reception. Here again Jennifer Hoback welcomes us, making introductions and encouraging conversations. The blend of cultures so evident in the city is mirrored in our conversations. Talk ranges from "must sees" in Santa Fe to other great travel destinations. After the reception, I decide to head to The Pink Adobe for dinner, the Inn's famous restaurant and a Santa Fe landmark since the 1940's. It's just around the corner, across from San Miguel Mission, the oldest chruch in the U.S.



The Pink Adobe first opened its doors during World War II, creating a cuisine that became known as high-end comfort food. The tradition continues. I select the Steak Dunigan, a house specialty that combines green chiles, sautéed mushrooms, and other vegetables over a charred New York strip steak, with a wine chosen to match. Authentic local cuisine and excellent service make it a perfect evening.

The next morning, after breakfast in the main courtyard, I head to the Santa Fe Farmers Market near the rail yard. Amid the scents of lavender and fresh herbs, tourists stroll next to locals doing their Saturday morning shopping. After exploring the stalls, I hurry to the Santa Fe School of Cooking, a mother/daughter operation offering classes several times a week focused on foods of the Southwest. It's a great opportunity to learn some local secrets and expand my cooking horizons!

Back at the Inn, my second floor Jasmine Suite becomes my afternoon retreat. First, I'm drawn to the view from my balcony, with the stunning Sangre de Cristo Mountains providing the backdrop to the glories of the New Mexican desert. The indulgence continues in my sumptuous soaking tub. Hand-laid mosaic tiles combine in a kaleidoscope of colors and patterns that blend exquisitely.



In the evening, I find another perfect blend at El Farol, Santa Fe's oldest restaurant and cantina. The strong aromas seem to seep through the adobe walls as I approach. The kitchen staff at the El Farol create their own medley of flavors from Spain, Santa Fe, and Mexico and complement their offerings with a wide selection of wines and sherries.

The next day I decide to take in the New Mexico History Museum, which just opened in May. The museum celebrates the diverse heritage of the region and anticipates Santa Fe's upcoming 400-year anniversary in 2010. The museum's interactive space displays artifacts from the last 400 years, with the aim to "educate, entertain, and amaze." Visitors learn about Billy the Kid, New Mexican Modern Art, and the art that emerges when cultures collide.

On my final evening, I opt for the romantic dining experience of the Amavi Restaurant, recently named "Best New Restaurant' by Santa Fean Magazine and given a 5-star rating by the Albuquerque Journal. Serving Mediterranean cuisine, their use of seasonal, local ingredients ensures a varied menu, almost daily. Mine is a well-crafted meal, a fitting end to a trip that has exceeded expectations. The enchantment of Santa Fe is everywhere and guests leave feeling re-charged with a new energy and perspective.



Photos courtesy of Inn of the Five Graces and the Santa Fe Visitors Bureau.

When to Go:

• Peak season is between June to August. To avoid the crowds, visit slightly off-peak in May and September.
• Santa Fe is in the mountains at an elevation of over 7,000 feet, so between November and April, there will be snowfall, but also a lot of sunny days.

Getting There:

• Most Santa Fe visitors fly into Albuquerque, where there are major airline options and frequent flights. It's about an hour's drive north from Albuquerque to Santa Fe. Book Flights

Rent a Car

• Sandia Shuttle Express offers convenient shuttle services between Santa Fe and Albuquerque International Airport; 888-775-5696; www.sandiashuttle.com

• New Mexico Rail Runner Express offers train service between Santa Fe and Albuquerque; www.nmrailrunner.com

Where to Stay:

• Inn of the Five Graces, 147 E De Vargas St.; (505) 992-0957; View hotel profile

• More Santa Fe hotels recommended by Luxury Travel Magazine Santa Fe luxury hotels

Where to Eat:

• The Pink Adobe, 406 Old Santa Fe Trail; (505) 983-7712; www.thepinkadobe.com
• El Farol Restaurant & Lounge, 808 Canyon Road, (505) 983-9912; www.elfarolsf.com
• Amavi Restaurant, 221 Shelby Street; (505) 988-2355; www.amavirestaurant.com

What to do:

• New Mexico History Museum: The recent grand opening of this museum will make you appreciate the rich history of New Mexico; www.nmhistorymuseum.org
• Santa Fe School of Cooking: The small classes and delightful demonstrations will prepare you to make your own southwest cuisine; www.santafeschoolofcooking.com
• Farmers Market: Open Every Tuesday and Saturday in the Santa Fe Railyard; www.santafefarmersmarket.com


 

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