Savvy travelers don't wait for winter to visit Telluride. Sunshine and fresh mountain air are year-round draws to this outdoor mecca.
Once the snow melts, those "in the know" trade skis and snowboards for golf clubs and fishing poles and the chance to rub elbows with celebrities and media at Telluride's film, music, food and wine festivals. I was anxious to see the summer scene for myself!
lumière, a new luxury boutique hotel opened in December 2008 to glowing reviews. Its 30 spacious suites, residences and penthouses are appointed with the finest in furnishings, a refined counterpoint to the rugged landscape of the mountains. Check-in is completed in my two-bedroom residence over cheese and a bottle of wine very civilized! A gourmet chef's kitchen and gas fireplace add a modern twist to a historic western town.
I've timed my stay in June to coincide with the annual Telluride Wine Festival and I start my holiday with an Italian Wine & Food pairing course. The instructor introduces the process of matching flavors with Italian wines. We learn that the acidity of tomatoes brings out the flavor of a traditional Chianti. This is one course I won't mind studying for!
In the afternoon, the lumière staff will arrange for an experienced guide to lead hikes into the fragrant evergreen forest. Fitness is an integral part of the Telluride experience and I welcome the chance to stretch my legs. Not surprisingly, the conversation turns to Pinot Grigio and Prosecco as we wind our way through an abundance of walking trails. On our return, a freshly prepared sushi and signature cocktails are offered as part of a welcome reception.
Next on my "holiday agenda" is a Gondola ride into town. The 12-minute complimentary trip named "the most beautiful commute in America" descends from the Mountain Village to historic Telluride. Before me Telluride lights up as the last colors of sunset fade behind the San Juan Mountains. I am mesmerized. The wine festivities are set up along the historic main street and boutique shops offer complimentary tastings. I follow the pedestrian flow to the tent set up as the hub for this evening's events. More than 200 vintners are on hand to pop corks and entice visitors to stimulate their pallets.
The next day, I wake to mountains bathed in the pale hues of morning. Hours could be spent watching the day unfold, but I have signed up for an adventure: mountain biking starting at over 10,000 feet. My tour group pedals past two alpine lakes and begins the descent into the South Fork Valley of the San Miguel River. Memories of childhood summers flash and terrain blurs. Short stretches of level trail are thankfully interspersed with the 17 miles of exciting downhill. This is an activity for the fit and the bold.
I plan my lunch around a New Zealand wine tasting. An earthy Pinot Noir and a crisp Sauvignon Blanc are my choices. The elevation increases the effects of alcohol and while some might consider this a bonus, my afternoon includes my first ever fly-fishing lesson. Proper gear is apparently a key and I enter the San Miguel River wearing fishing waders and wader boots. My catch is a small trout and I'm thrilled.
Although I intend to do some serious relaxing, Telluride's many activities beckon. Is it true that the altitude improves one's golf game? I need to find out. The 18-hole Telluride Golf Club is 9,300 feet above sea level, which translates to 15% more distance on the drive. And sure enough, with less air resistance, I feel new power in my swing. For those looking to see for themselves, the course is open from May to October.
Another day of outdoor adventure finds me touring Telluride's high country, 13,000 feet above sea level. My guide, Richard brings me to the Tomboy ghost town in a 4x4 jeep. The history of the gold rush is written in the town's building boom and subsequent abandonment. At the end of the day, I'm more than ready for the luxurious 120 degree steam shower back in my suite.
My final day coincides with the grand finale of the Telluride Wine Festival. Downtown Telluride is buzzing and a live concert adds to the festive air. There are wine options to suit every inclination. Looking up at the jagged mountains, I contemplate my return to Telluride, next time with my skis in tow.
When to Go:
Summer Season is June to September, with pleasant weather possible in May and October as well.
Winter Season begins on Thanksgiving Day, and the ski resorts stay open through April.
Getting There:
Telluride Airport is currently closed for renovation.
Montrose Regional Airport: 1 ½ hours from Telluride. Shuttle service to lumiére is offered in one of the hybrid SUVs.
Allred's: For spectacular views and culinary excellence, this restaurant is a must. (2 Coonskin Ride Lane, Telluride. (970) 728 7474)
Shanghai Palace: In downtown Telluride, authentic Chinese food is on offer. (126 East Colorado Avenue, Telluride. (970) 728 0882)
little bar at lumiere: With hot tubs lining the patio of this bar, you can gaze at the stars while nibbling fresh sushi and cocktails. (At lumiére. (970) 728 5134)
What to Do:
Fly-fishing in Trout Lake or San Miguel River
Jeep Tour of Tomboy Gold Mines, reaching 13,500 feet
Experience Telluride's beauty from a bike tour
For guided adventure tours, Telluride Outside offers premier guided tours www.tellurideoutside.com
Play 18 holes at the Telluride Golf Club www.tellurideskiresort.com
Telluride Wine Festival, every June www.telluridewinefestival.com
Telluride Film Festival, every September www.telluridefilmfestival.org
Photos courtesy of lumiére and Telluride Ski Resort.
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