Weekend Away: Palm Beach

The Breakers recently completed a comprehensive ten-year $250 million revitalization and the castle-like grounds are magical. The 200-foot-long palatial lobby's magnificent, high-arched ceiling is decorated with paintings by 73 Florentine artist and combines old-world opulence with American innovation. The European nobility and American presidents who visited in decades past would feel equally at home.



My husband and I check in to a "Resort View Signature Suite" with separate bedroom and living room. All guest rooms and suites feature a brand new, fresh décor but adhere to the resort's classic residential style and offer the highest standard of comfort. We are visiting in March when the hotel is full and are unable to secure an ocean view room, the preferred accommodation here.

For the ultimate accommodation, book the Imperial Designer Suite, The Breakers' one-of-a-kind top suite, or Flagler Club Level located on the hotel's top two floors featuring a private lounge and outside terrace, plus many special privileges and amenities.

Oceanfront room

We unpack and make a beeline for The Beach Club -- a stunning stretch along a half-mile of private beach with five oceanfront pools nestled amidst tropical landscaping. (There are also four whirlpool spas and 25 private beach bungalows!) Each pool offers a different style and atmosphere. We first come upon the 23-meter, three-lane lap pool, the destination for those determined to exercise. Next we discover the hotel's main pool with accompanying toddler's pool and then a free form, zero entry "active" pool for families. Last, but certainly not least, we locate the south pool -- a tranquil, adults-only infinity-edge pool. Here we gratefully settle in with books and iPods.

Choices for drinking and dining at The Beach Club include The Beach Club Restaurant and Bar -- a stylish oceanfront setting for informal dining and drinks; The Ocean Grill, serving casual luncheon fare and refreshments in a setting reminiscent of a seaside cottage; and the Beach Gazebo, an open-air "tiki- hut" pavilion.





We sip tropical drinks under the thatched Beach Gazebo and feel like we've been transported to a Caribbean island.

For dinner we choose The Seafood Bar, one of the resort's nine restaurants! Surprisingly, there aren't many options for oceanfront dining in Palm Beach, but this is one of them. I set my drink down on one of the two L-shaped aquarium bar counters and watch small fish and other marine life explore the coral stones.

Tonight is a full moon and we learn that the Spa offers a special, once-a-month, moonlight massage in a private, open-air area by the ocean. Unfortunately, bookings are full -- next time we'll know to plan in advance!

The Breakers is an epicenter for Palm Beach galas and events and evenings in the lobby offer fabulous people-watching. We meander through to the Tapestry Bar which is framed with 16th century tapestries and antique mirrors. Richly textured carpets, carved mahogany sofas and a vintage nineteenth century bar complete the European ambiance. A female singer performs jazzy, bluesy songs. I could be in turn-of-the-century Paris.



Saturday morning we are treated to a gorgeous sunrise over the Atlantic Ocean. We take an early morning stroll on the property and see other early risers practicing on the yoga lawn and swimming in the lap pool.

Every inch of The Breakers, all 140 acres inside and out, is immaculate. Descendants of the resort's founder, Henry Flagler (J.D. Rockefeller's partner in Standard Oil) still own the property and invest $20 million annually in its ongoing enhancement. They take such good care of their staff that the average tenure is over 13 years. And the staff (all 1,800 of them!) has an uncanny way of making you feel like family.

On this beautiful morning we enjoy a relaxing al fresco breakfast at The Beach Club Restaurant. I love their fresh juice menu -- my favorite is the über-healthy kale, spinach and cucumber, which I end up returning for multiple times during our stay. On our way back up to our room, we wander through the hotel's world-class shopping arcade with eleven boutiques: Lilly Pulitzer and Ralph Lauren to get the authentic Palm Beach style; Mix and Match -- the resort's own signature jewelry store and shoe salon; Absolutely Suitable - the first and only shop dedicated to designer swimwear in the U.S.; Guerlain; and more.

Worth Avenue

With my shopping appetite whetted, we head to Worth Avenue, also known as "Rodeo Drive East". The epitome of Palm Beach style, the street has approximately 250 shops, boutiques, restaurants and art galleries. I find it is prettier than Rodeo Drive. Spanish tiled roofs, balconies and terraces are made for this sun-splashed climate, and small hidden alleyways called "vias" off the main avenue end in enchanting little piazzas.

When we return to The Breakers, I decide to make this a completely indulgent day and spend the afternoon in the Spa while my husband heads to the beach. I love the tranquil Mediterranean courtyard with bubbling fountain. The gorgeous Spa at The Breakers is recognized as one of the top 25 spas in North America.

I am surprised to find out that there is a reef off The Breakers' beach and that the resort offers SCUBA lessons among the myriad other activities. A completely self-contained resort destination, The Breakers also features 36 holes of championship golf and Golf Academy; 10 tennis courts; ocean view Fitness Center; Yoga and Pilates classes; Family Entertainment Center and an extensive program of family and children's activities, among a list of many other things too long to mention.

The Breakers' Spa Courtyard

Tonight we take the two-minute resort shuttle into town to one of the resort's two off-property restaurants. 'Echo' serves Asian cuisine - tastes of China, Thailand, Japan and Vietnam - in a chic atmosphere. I highly recommend Echo, but secure reservations in advance to avoid disappointment. The other off-property restaurant is 'Top of the Point' with stunning views of Palm Beach and The Breakers from its penthouse level perch in town.

Sunday Brunch at The Circle is a must

The resort offers so many enticing dining options that you might need to diet before or after visiting (unless you have the discipline for the lap pool). We couldn't miss The Breakers' famous Sunday Brunch that has been a tradition for over 25 years. The elaborate brunch is served every Sunday from 11:00 a.m. until 2:00 p.m. in the spectacular elegance of The Circle, amid intricate hand-painted ceilings and splendid ocean views.

We've been so pampered this weekend that we're tempted to move in. The Breakers makes an amazing first impression and never disappoints. There is much we didn't get to do. Whitehall, the Palm Beach mansion of Henry Flagler that is now a museum is still on our "to-do" list and my husband is talking about scuba lessons. Perhaps we will follow in the footsteps of those American tycoons and make The Breakers a place we return to again and again.

On our departure from the island, we were held up by a superyacht passing under the drawbridge.

Hotel Profile, more photos: The Breakers