The Wilderness Charm that is Lewa Safari Camp

The safari started before I could unpack. As the land rower bumped among the half an hour drive from the conservancy gate to the Lewa safari camp, the animal spotting began. And even before reaching ‘the other paradise' in this paradise land, I had clocked a family of elephants, herds of bachelors' impala, Masaai ostriches and many a reticulated giraffes.

I breathed in the moment as I reached the Lewa Safari Camp. Both stories of conservation and royal romance followed by a fairytale engagement of Prince Richard brought me to this place. Situated against the dramatic backdrop of the snow-covered massif of Mt Kenya, in the midst of the forest, Lewa Safari Camp is a busy place. A main lounge constructed of cedarwood, housing the dining area, is busy and frequently visited by avian visitors. I say your game drive starts here, with weaver birds, spotted doves, skinks, large mongoose and even dik-diks, coming from time to time to say ‘hi' to you.



The recipient of several awards, Camp has on offer twelve en-suite safari tents, accommodating up to 27 guests at a time. Each thatch-covered tent is well equipped with modern amenities to make your stay comfortable, embellished with impeccable décor and an designer's eye for details – the ensuite bathrooms with power showers and flushing loos and roll-up canvas walls to maximize game viewing, these small elements in designing add to the natural charm of these luxury tents. My tent faced east to make moments of memorable sunrises and morning light for me. From my tent I could see the greener and flatter Massai land. I pictured myself on a hot air balloon or a plane that could take me several knots over these lands, looking at families of reticulated giraffes making a move, their graceful limbs moving in slow motion or herds of grant's gazelle chased by the ultimate chase machine of Africa, families of elephants and rhinos and the big cats – keeping an eye on their activities from above. Oh! The thought.

Blending rustic elements with contemporary design, Lewa safari camp is a piece of art in itself. Every tent opens up to the vast swathes of grasslands. A guard accompanies you from room to the dining area and it seems that every team member is a naturalist, led by Tamlin who is more a birder, a conservationist than a resort manager. Sit with him for a cup of coffee or tea and you will literally be transported to a raw battle ground with elephants, lions and his favourite painted hunting dogs as subjects on the field. He has his stories, and he can go on for hours, taking you from one part of Africa to the other and he has incorporated this ‘story sharing' idea in the design of the resort. Lewa Safari Camp arranges a ‘jungle get together' for the guests or rather holidayers. A table is set linearly for drinks and barbeque for bitings, in an open area, which overlooks the rolling savanna grassland (you might be offered a lucky sighting from here). Gin and beer in this place surrounded by endless scrubby bush, a view of miles of wilderness, a luridly coloured sky, and a moon of a size of an over-inflated football with an orchestra of stars and hyena call for the background music. And then the floor is opened for the religiously practiced story sharing sessions, ardent safarians take the center stage to transfix people with their commentary on animals and their experiences across wildlife parks.



And when in Lewa Safari Camp, take time out to leave your safari vehicles behind to enjoy the little elements and the micro eco-systems through walking safaris and riding moments. Trailists can remain assured of some close encounters with the protected two tonne tank of an herbivore or with herds of oryx and zebras and ostriches. The walking safaris are led by trained guides. Riding safaris on horses are done in the evenings and are again good to get the raw creature moments. On horseback, one can expect to get close and personal to the wildlife. To add more cultural flavor to the trip, take a cultural tour. Lewa Conservancy borders the Samburu community conservancy of Tassia and Il Ngwesi in the arid lowlands of the north. A local visit can be arranged to the villages. The Samburu tribe lives in semi-permanent huts known as Manyattas constructed using cattle dung and grass. The families will show you round their home for a fee and you can even buy some of their traditional handicrafts – bargain hard! Separate visits can be arranged to schools run with the help of a camp (a part of rent and conservancy fee goes to running of these villages).

Lewa Safari Camp's review is half done, it if doesn't mention its unparallel dining options. Going beyond the normal routine, Camp eagerly arranges the bush breakfasts and sundowners after a day of safari. So just set off, to lull your heart with the inescapable melody of the landscape, calls of gazelles from some hidden corners, hoots of owls, chirps of hidden fauna in the grass, a carpet of wild flowers and the optimism in the lofty mountains overlooking all the activities as God's messenger. With gin and tonic for yourself accompanied with some bitings, breathe in the magnetic beauty of the land. Even when not out on specially organized breakfast, food in Lewa Safari Camp is just unmissable. The continental and oriental delights served are mouth-watering and the pleasure of having supper by a fireplace adds to the charm. Do ask for the specially brewed coffee; it takes a lot of creativity to make such an insanely well brewed coffee.



To reach: One can either take an air route (45 minutes from Nairobi, cost around 100-150 USD) or arrive at Lewa strip or opt for road travel. Taxi from Nairobi can charge you around 10000 kenyan shillings (one way). There is another way which I took, take a shuttle from Nairobi to Isiolo (just 600 shillings). You can actually get down at the gates of the conservancy. The conservancy is four kilometers from the Meru-Isiolo junction. On way back, you will have to take a matatu (mini van) from the Meru – Isiolo junction to Nanyuki town (300 shillings) and a shuttle from Nanyuki to Nairobi (300 shillings). Pick and drop to the gate is arranged by the camp.

Aakash Mehrotra (blogs @ handofcolors.me)