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Back to:  Home > Destinations > North America > Canada > British Columbia

Whistler

Vancouver & Whistler

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Whistler — rated the "best skiing" in North America for 8 years in a row. Vancouver — voted most desirable city to live in by a majority of Canadians. My husband and I make the 2,500 mile trek from Boston to see if we too can put the Vancouver/Whistler experience at the top of our own list of the "best the continent has to offer."

Upon arrival, a gentle rain limits visibility, but not our enthusiasm. The mountains lie across the bay behind a gray veil of fog as we head for the city in our rental car. Suddenly the towers of the Vancouver waterfront shift into view, eliciting a quick double take. For a moment it is Hong Kong's Victoria Harbor before us, and then familiar Canadian trademarks register. A Tim Horton's, Canada's ubiquitous donut franchise, appears — shouldered by an Indian restaurant and an Asian grocery store. Businesses will staff a French-speaker, but the "other language" on signs and billboards is Chinese.

We have chosen the Marriott and booked a 30th floor mini-suite in search of a view and distance from preparations for the 2010 Olympics. The harbor mesmerizes, but to see more we must wait on the weather. The next day we repack the car and head north and east over the Lion's Gate Bridge. Momentary cloud breaks hint at vistas, but the road snakes along cliffs and hovers over bays demanding concentration. Once again we are filled with anticipation.

Our destination is the newly (perhaps prematurely) opened Nita Lake Lodge just opposite the first of three Whistler villages. Our cathedral-ceiling fourth floor room has all the amenities promised — plasma TV and oversized bath with heated floor tiles. The ice machines are still on order and the spa no more than a plan, but the staff is anxious to please. We are here to ski and our opportunity will come with the opening of tomorrow morning's gondola.

Nothing dominates a ski resort more than talk of the weather. Will there be a fresh covering? Any wind? Will temperatures rise enough to soften the snow? What about avalanche danger? Will flat light hide contours? Or will the sun reveal a universe of breathless beauty? At the Nita Lake Lodge forecasts are posted but assurances never given. Whistler only peaks just above 7,000 feet and is surrounded by rainforest. A perpetual cloud separates the villages from the magnificent snow above. An act of faith is required to purchase an all day ticket and ascend through the gloom. We are ready!

We are easterners and so plan to arrive early before the slopes get skied out. Once through the clouds we see immediately this will never happen. Groomed slopes are only a fraction of what lies before us. A skier is limited only by ability and imagination. Bob heads off in search of the "steep and gnarly," while I take the conservative approach of a confirmed intermediate. We meet an hour later and decided on a complementary mountain tour, joining groups commensurate with our abilities. Then the fog rolls in. One minute clouds are gathering, the next we can barely see five feet in front of us. The host of my group decides on a descent down the mountain in search of improved visibility. We never find it. Whistler is "socked in."

The next day we return, and there are moments of partial clearing. We stay on the slopes, hoping—though it means skiing with everyone else on very limited terrain. Twice we ascend on the peak chairlift only to find ourselves in a cloud so thick I'm disoriented and a bit nauseous. We summon what patience we can and vow to return another day. I talk about sacrificing to the weather gods. In the days that follow we make several visits to the different villages and enjoy a lovely walk along a bike trail in the snow. We have a memorable dinner at the Nita Lake Lodge and imagine Whistler as a summer destination. But the truth is we feel dejected.

In the days that remain, the snow continues to fall. We finally corner a local who admits that this is typical Whistler weather. The first sunny day will be magnificent, conditions likely a perfect 10, but it won't happen in the week we are here. We decide to return to Vancouver and make the most of our time there.

As we board the plane back to Boston, we hear a fellow traveler describe his own trip to Whistler — "best skiing in the west" he confidently proclaims. Can we, should we agree? Are rare moments of perfection the true gauge of the highest standard? We're happy to have skied Whistler, but it won't make our list of top travel destinations. We acknowledge that this is a personal, largely subjective evaluation, but our search of the best skiing in North America continues.

Written by Deborah Abraham for Luxury Travel Magazine
© Copyright March 2008. All rights reserved.
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