Cambodia, the ancient Khmer culture, a lost world, a modern tragedy -- we hardly know what to expect. Bunsak, our Cambodian representative from the Amansara meets us at the Siem Reap airport. He is kind, respectful, welcoming, proud, even joyful in the face of an uncertain future. He whisks us into the comfort of a waiting automobile for the short trip to the hotel. The odyssey begins.