Walk into any church or cathedral across the UK or Europe and you’re likely to find stained glass windows. The colourful windows, often depicting Biblical scenes or figures, have been used in religious buildings in Britain and on the continent for over 1000 years. They’re not so common in swimming pools, though. In fact, our recent stay at Rockliffe Hall is the first time I’ve even swam a few lengths of the pool with sunlight shining through multi-coloured windows. The windows here contain the original stained glass from a derelict chapel that used to be on the site where the hotel’s Spa is now, which the owners decided to keep when they first opened Rockliffe Hall in 2009. It’s one of several smart, creative touches across the still-evolving hotel that we take in during a two-night stay.
Rockliffe Hall is an award-winning, 5-star country hotel set within 375 acres of peaceful grounds on the banks of the River Tees, just outside the village of Hurworth-on-Tees, County Durham in north-east England.
It started off life back in the early 1800s as Pilmore House and has changed hands through the centuries, including landscape painter Thomas Surtees Raine. In 1950, what had become the Rockliffe Park estate was bought by the Brothers of St John of God and converted into a hospital, later still becoming a Community Centre run by Durham County Council. For several years, it stood empty and abandoned, during which time it was left to vandals. In 1996, Middlesbrough Football Club bought it and established new training grounds next door. The estate has had plenty of other dramas along the way, too. In 1903 and 1974, the buildings were badly damaged by fire. In 1944, a light aircraft crashed into the grounds, fortunately missing any buildings and only causing damage to trees. The hotel has also had a brush with stardom - parts of the grounds were used as backdrops for scenes from the hit 1971 film Get Carter, starring Michael Caine.
Today, the hotel has recently refurbished rooms and suites spread across the Old Hall and New Hall, a championship 18-hole golf course, and a 50,000-square-foot award-winning spa and outdoor Spa Garden, one of the largest in England, as well as dining options put together by Culinary Director James Close, former chef-patron of the two-Michelin-starred Raby Hunt. More alterations and additions to the hotel are also currently underway.
Arriving into northern England on a cool, grey autumn morning, we turn down the driveaway towards the impressive red brick mansion, where staff help us drop our bags off into the bright, airy lobby. Inside, there’s a large chandelier hanging from the high ceiling and a few arty, creative sculptures, including a Mad Hatter’s top hat, drawing inspiration from Alice in Wonderland – author Lewis Carroll spent much of his youth in the village of Croft, less than a mile away. Check-in is speedy, and we’re soon settling into our smart suite, which is decorated floor-to-ceiling in shades of greys, with a silvery grey carpet and light grey walls and ceiling. As well as a large, comfy double bed covered with pillows in the centre of the suite, a single bed has been set up for our young son. In a corner, there’s a long, blocky, comfy sofa, facing across to the wall-mounted TV, which has a great selection of films, including recently released blockbusters. There’s also a dressing table and mirror, a wooden unit with tea and coffee, and a fridge, with abstract black and white images hung on the walls. From our window, we can look out across the golf course and surrounding woodland. The gleaming bathroom has twin white sinks, a walk-in rainshower and a big bath, which has a TV embedded in the wall to watch while in the tub.
We head down to explore the spa. Children aren’t allowed in the spa area’s round heated pool, but we enjoy playing in the kids’ pool and main swimming pool, it’s windows shifting from yellow and orange through to greens, blues and purple as we swim from end to end.
In the evening, we head down through the golf course to The Clubhouse restaurant and bar, which has tartan carpets and tables with crisp white linen. We’re seating by the window, which looks out onto a putting green and the sprawling course beyond, where we’re well-looked after by the waiting staff, starting with a chilled bottle of recommended rosé from Provence, France. While I got for a seafood cocktail with Atlantic prawns, crayfish, Marie Rose sauce and iceberg lettuce followed by a main of North Sea cod on Piperade (a kind of tomatoey stew with red peppers) and saffron aioli, my wife opts for the meatier Barbecue Iberico pork ribs steak with coleslaw to start, then a flatiron steak, our son choosing from the Kids Menu. While he ends with ice cream, we both go for a chocolate and hazelnut choux bun with praline ice cream and chocolate sauce for dessert, which is rich, sweet and indulgent. As the sun sets, we wander slowly back up to the main house.
Breakfast next morning is served in a massive, grand hall that’s used for events, with white walls and glistening chandeliers. At one end, there’s an extensive buffet, from fruit, juices and yoghurts to pastries and chocolate muffins. Toast and tea are served to the table, and I also fuel up for the day ahead with Craster smoked kippers, a speciality in this part of northern England, with poached eggs.
The hotel’s on the border between County Durham and North Yorkshire, with plenty to do in the area, including walks along the River Tees and North York Moors National Park, the medieval Raby Castle with a deer park and gardens, and the UNESCO World Heritage-listed Durham Cathedral and Durham Castle, with Saltburn-by-the-Sea only a short drive away on the coast. We spend our morning at Hopetown Dallington, a Grade II* listed Victorian train station turned railway museum, which is located on the 1825-built route of the Stockton and Darlington Railway, the world’s first steam-powered passenger railway. Just down from the museum is Skerne Bridge, the oldest working railway bridge in the world.
For the rest of the day, we stay around the hotel, taking a wander around the grounds, first to the children’s play area, with wooden climbing frames, swings and slides, then to the walled garden, where colourful fruits and vegetables are being grown, ingredients used in many of the hotel’s dishes.
In the afternoon, my wife and I take it in turns to use the spa facilities, including a hydro pool, thermal suite, monsoon showers and an outdoor hot tub, plus an exclusive additional area called The Spa Garden, which has panoramic views of the estate, an infinity pool with hydrotherapy massage showers and bubbles, a glass-fronted sauna, and tepidarium beds that gently radiate heat to reduce stress and promote relaxation. The main pool with stained glass windows is lovely, but the warmed outdoor pool, looking out onto the golf course and lawns where rabbits are scurrying about, is the best spot in the hotel.
Afterwards, I go to the front desk for my Hot Rocks spa treatment. A therapist leads me down a dark, reddish-brown corridor into a quiet room, my excellent treatment starting with a warm foot bath. As ambient music plays, I’m given a skillful, thorough, firm massage with heated rocks (alternated occasionally with cold rocks for the sensory experience), warm oils and a warmed bed, followed by an outstanding scalp massage. It’s one of the best massages I’ve had in a long time, which comes to a close with a cup of hot ginger tea.
In the evening, we eat in The Bar, a more casual lounge with a grand piano in one corner, enjoying fish finger buns with chips, burgers, and a cheese board with local creations from northern England and further afield. But the stars of the show here are the cocktails, including The Walled Garden (with blackberries, lemongrass, Champagne and herbs from the hotel’s garden) and a mezcal-based Get Carter, a nod to the movie. My favourite is The Cricket Ball, a satisfying cocktail with cherry brandy, Buffalo Trace bourbon, Kahlua and cream. I’ve never been much of a fan of cricket but this I can get definitely onboard with.
Rockliffe Hall, Hurworth Rd, Hurworth-on-Tees, Darlington DL2 2DU: https://www.rockliffehall.com/
Standard doubles from £312 bed and breakfast.
