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An Intercontinental Girlfriend's Getaway: Paris & London
September 10, 2009
Christine Gray
A luxury hotel can be your host in a city, providing "insider experiences" as you head out each day and a welcome refuge when you return. We follow in the footsteps of foreign dignitaries, celebrities and artists (not to mention the occasional rock-star and sultan) who opt for the Intercontinental.
DAY ONE:
InterContinental Paris Le Grand
exudes the essence of Paris, its Empire style borne of Napoleon's love of grandeur. The hotel, inaugurated in 1862 by Empress Eugénie, is an historic monument facing the Opéra Garnier and centrally located near famous Parisian attractions including the Place Vendôme, the Place de la Madeleine and the Louvre museum. It's also convenient to the high-end boutiques on the rue du Faubourg Saint-Honoré. When we arrive at the hotel, a Saudi Princess and her entourage is checking out and Sharon Stone had just dined in the hotel's famous restaurant, Café de la Paix, during her photo shoot for
Paris Match
.
At the very heart of present-day and eternal Paris,
InterContinental Paris Le Grand
offers a unique opportunity for a genuine Parisian experience. Magnificently draped in exuberant red and gold, this splendidly renovated listed property displays its rich and colorful past begun in 1862 during the reign of Napoleon III. Its restaurant,
Café de la Paix
, is one of the capital's legendary places and an essential part of Parisian life.
Our flight from the USA arrives early morning, a few hours before check-in. We've pre-arranged a Spa visit at the hotel to rejuvenate and energize after the overnight flight. The InterContinental Le Grand's
I-Spa by Algotherm
is the only spa in Paris featuring thalasso (sea) treatments. Their signature treatment, "The Deep Blue Massage" uses a wealth of elements and mineral salts contained in water extracted the Pacific Ocean at depths of over 3,000 feet. Untouched by pollution, the water is a superb source from which to replenish the body.
After the spa, we check in to our sumptuous deluxe rooms that feature French doors in both the bedroom and bathroom overlooking the Opéra House. After settling in, we meet in the Club InterContinental for refreshments and a light lunch. This VIP lounge is a warm and relaxing space on two levels. Next on our agenda is a tour through this historic hotel and its incredible public spaces. We descend to the lobby level and discover the airy Winter Garden "La Verriere" at the center of the hotel. Around it are the Café de la Paix, a cozy intimate bar decorated in rich red velvet, and the Ravel Salon that connects the Winter Garden to the amazing grandeur of the Salon Opéra, the most renowned ballroom in all of Paris.
In the evening, we celebrate our arrival in Paris with a champagne toast and gastronomic dinner in
Café de la Paix
, a Parisian institution beloved by residents and visitors alike. Café de la Paix's Second Empire décor of painted ceilings, pillars and plant-themed murals is listed as a French Historic Monument. The chef presents us with a wonderful five-course meal with complementing wines, starting with an amuse-bouche of paté and foie gras. The next course is a salad creatively presented in the form of a kebab made of chunky bites of heirloom tomatoes and mozzarella. The main course is succulent, grilled lobster from Brittany with in-season marinated vegetables. The service is impeccable.
Café de la Paix is the only restaurant in the world to offer limited-edition pastries designed by fashion icons such as agnès b, Paco Rabanne and Elie Saab. We indulged with a chocolate cake and mousse pastry called "Sarah," designed by
Jean-Claude Jitrois
and inspired by George Clairin's 1876 portrait of the famous actress Sarah Bernhardt. (A reproduction of this work hangs majestically in the lobby of the InterContinental Paris Le Grand.)
DAY TWO:
The Café de la Paix serves full American and Japanese buffet breakfasts, but we opt for a light breakfast in the Club lounge and then venture out into the surrounding neighborhood. Our walk takes us past Galeries Lafayette and Printemps department stores. We decide to do some shopping in
Printemps
a high-end, luxury shopping experience. The hotel provides guests with a VIP discount card and we make good use of ours!
Next we come upon the Place de la Madeleine with its impressive church modeled after a Roman temple and boutique gourmet shops that include
FAUCHON
. The concierge at the InterContinental Paris offers to arrange an Insider's tour of this legendary grocery store that includes a private tasting of wine and foie gras or cheese but we have other plans. We continue past
Ladurée
, the renowned bakery and tea salon that first opened its doors in 1862 and turn onto the rue du Faubourg Saint-Honoré where the Élysée Palace, the official office and residence of President Nicolas Sarkozy and his wife Carla Bruni is located. Famous designer boutiques,
Chanel
,
Lanvin
,
Hermes
,
Givenchy
,
Boucheron
,
Dior
line the avenue (The reason Carla is always so well dressed?) but with only a pause for some window shopping, we arrive at the
Place de la Concorde
. Here at the foot of the
Avenue des Champs Elysees
, we can see the
Arc de Triomphe
at the far end and across the Seine river to the
Eiffel Tower
. On the north side of the plaza is the Hotel de Crillon and the street leading to the Madeleine. To the east, the Place de la Concorde borders the Jardin des Tuileries (Tuileries Garden) that leads to the
Louvre museum
.
In the Jardin des Tuileries we find
Café Reale
, an outdoor restaurant shaded by a huge chestnut tree that offers Mediterranean cooking and light dishes in a countryside-like atmosphere. We stop for lunch and order pasta with seafood and a bottle of wine.
After lunch, we continue our walk through the Tuileries Gardens to the grounds of the Louvre. From the Quai du Louvre along the Seine, we cross the
Pont Neuf
to the Île de la Cité and marvel at
Notre Dame cathedral
. Behind Notre Dame, we cross to the Ile St-Louis to get a taste of the
best ice cream in Paris
at Berthillon. From here, we take a taxi back to the hotel, but a quick trip from the Pont Marie
Metro stop
to the Opéra is also an easy way back to the hotel.
Later in the afternoon, the Concierge arranges a "behind the scenes" private tour of the
Eiffel Tower
for us. A driver picked us up at 4:00pm and drops us on top of the hill of the Trocadéro where we had an incredible view of the Eiffel Tower. We made our way down to the base of the Tower to meet our private guide who begins the tour with an amazing look at the original engine room that still controls the elevators. We feel like celebrities as we are whisked passed the waiting crowds and up to the first level of the tower. We admire the 360-degree views over the city of Paris and our guide tells us about the architect Gustave Eiffel, the challenges associated with its building and key events in its 120-year history.
After the tour we stay on the first level to dine at the new restaurant,
58 Tour Eiffel
. The other option is to go up to the second level and dine at Jules Verne. Both restaurants are run by
Chef Alain Ducasse
. Our window table looks onto the Trocadéro hill and the sunset. By the time we finish and return to ground level, it's dark and we look up to see the glittering Eiffel Tower at night a spectacular sight!
DAY THREE:
It's another beautiful summer day in Paris, so we have our host (oops...I mean the Concierge) arrange a cruise on the Seine for us through
Yachts de Paris
. Their fleet of six elegant yachts can accommodate from 2 to 800 people (for special events). With their teak decks, acajou wood, copper fittings, uniformed crew and elegant dining, Yachts de Paris offers a unique setting in which to share this magical journey.
Next, we make a whirlwind visit in the Louvre museum to quickly see the famous statues of the Venus de Milo and the Winged Victory of Samothrace, as well as Leonardo da Vinci's Mona Lisa and a few other masterwork paintings and sculptures. An in-depth visit of the world's largest museum with 35,000 works of art will have to wait until our next trip to Paris!
Another "Insider Experience" the concierge arranges for us is a private tour of the
Fragonard
perfume museum that occupies the former town house residence of opera singer
Maria Callas
just across the street from our hotel. We want a casual place for our final dinner to give us a feeling for "le vrai Paris" (the real or nostalgic Paris) so the concierge recommends a café/bar called "Le Petit Fer à Cheval" (meaning horseshoe) in the heart of the Marais, one of Paris' most fashionable districts. This adorable little spot features a precious marble horseshoe-shaped bar with an equally adorable bartender and chic crowd.
DAY FOUR:
Today we say "au revoir" to Paris and board the
Eurostar
at Paris' Gare du Nord to London. We book Business Premier Class departing at 1:00pm. It's best to arrive at least a half hour ahead of time and head straight upstairs to check-in. We travel through the French countryside from Paris to Calais, through the
Chunnel
(less than 20 minutes), and re-emerge to enjoy the English countryside from Folkstone to London's St-Pancras station. Business Premier Class includes food, wine, dessert and coffee. Lunch is a choice of succulent chicken prepared with peach sauce or salmon fillet with garlic and parley butter. We arrive at 2:30pm (we gain one hour traveling from Paris to London, so the trip is actually 2-1/2 hours). We've arranged for the hotel to pick us up but a cab is an easy alternative.
The
InterContinental London Park Lane
has a very different look and feel from its Parisian sister-hotel but with the same great service. It's sleek, modern and fun with an all-day Lobby Lounge that transforms from day to night and a great Spa. It's also perfectly situated in a prestigious location between Mayfair and Knightsbridge, walking distance to
Hyde Park
, Bond Street shopping and a host of attractions including Buckingham Palace.
We discover that the InterContinental London Park Lane offers a range of styles in their guest rooms and suites from modern to traditional. Standard guest rooms are designed in a timeless English style to evoke a luxurious residential feel yet with all the modern touches like flat panel TV's and Bose sound systems. Sixty very spacious suites are furnished in a neo-classical style, mixing contemporary pieces with a classic feel. The hotel's four signature suites offer a choice from chic and modern to opulent. Once again, the hotel was preparing for a visit by a head of state in their Royal Suite.
The four of us are film buffs, so we book one of the most fun suites in the hotel the
Cinema Suite
(Room 620). The 1,120 sq. ft. Cinema Suite overlooks Hyde Park and Knightsbridge and comes complete with an intimate screening room for six people and a film library with over 250 titles to choose from. The suite includes one bedroom, but connects with three additional guest rooms to make a four-bedroom suite perfect for us! In addition, there's a beautiful dining area for six people, a kitchenette and an open-plan living space complete with a comfortable L-shaped sofa, stylish leather coffee table and large flat panel TV.
Guests staying in suites have access to
Club InterContinental
located on the seventh floor. This exquisite contemporary space spreads over 2,400 square feet and features floor-to-ceiling windows that provide panoramic views of London's Hyde Park and skyline beyond, including
Big Ben
and
The London Eye
. Here we toast our arrival in London with their complimentary two-hour champagne bar.
When it's time for dinner, we're excited to try out the hotel's destination restaurant
Theo Randall at The InterContinental
. This is Theo's first independent venture following his 10 years as Head Chef at the Michelin-starred River Café. Recently voted Italian Restaurant of the Year at the London Restaurant Awards 2008, the restaurant features fine regional Italian cuisine with an emphasis on seasonality and daily menu changes.
DAY FIVE:
Again we see first-hand the importance of selecting the right hotel along with the value of a top-notch concierge (Simon Rose). We want a day filled with authentic London "Insider Experiences" and are delighted with the recommended options.
We start with a private "backstage" tour of the changing of the guard.
The Household Cavalry Museum
is a living museum in the heart of Horse Guards, Whitehall, London. Unlike any other military museum, it offers a unique behind-the-scenes look at the work that goes into the ceremonial and operational role of the Household Cavalry Regiment.
Lunch is at
Harrod's Georgian Restaurant
followed by a private insider's tour of the world's most famous luxury department store...with time for some all-important shopping!
In the evening, we see the beloved British musical
Oliver!
that brings to life Charles Dickens' timeless characters at The Theatre Royal Drury Lane. We enjoy it so much we find ourselves singing the classic tunes on our way to an after-theatre dinner of Shepherd's Pie at
The Ivy
. Oak-paneled walls and stained glass windows set the ambience in this post-theatre hotspot frequented by celebrities.
DAY SIX:
Today we begin with a leisurely breakfast and spa treatments. Breakfast is at the hotel's
Cookbook Café
a relaxed place with interactive cooking stations and floor-to-ceiling windows overlooking Park Lane and Hyde Park. The Café also provides a venue for aspiring chefs and sommeliers and a place where guests can experience food and wine tastings, book launches, drinks master classes and cooking demonstrations by renowned visiting chefs.
Spa InterContinental
is a destination in itself. It takes the novel approach of charging by the quarter hour, allowing clients to choose hours of bliss or a quick pick-me-up. From the minute you enter the spa you are taken on a unique journey created just for you.
Elemis
spa treatments are in oval-shaped rooms that make you feel cocooned. Chromotherapy, music and aromatherapy are customized to match your personal preferences. My Choice? The "Visible Brilliance" facial amidst tropical aromas, island music and blue-green lighting.
Later, we indulge in the famous
Fortnum & Mason
traditional afternoon tea and catch up on our gossip. We have a choice of Brut or Rosé Champagne and Classic or Rare Teas, as well as Mini Cheese and Potato Tartlets, a Terrine of London Smoked Salmon with Dill Butter, four different kinds of finger sandwiches, freshly baked scones served with Somerset Clotted Cream and Strawberry Preserves, and two reception pastries from the Fortnum & Mason Classic Selection. To work off some of those calories, we go for an afternoon jog along the Serpentine pond in Hyde Park across the hotel.
Indian food is sometimes called "the second national food of England", so the concierge recommends the
Veeraswamy
for our farewell dinner. Established in 1926, it's the UK's oldest Indian restaurant and is a fantastic choice. We share many exotic dishes in a sublime atmosphere evoking the Maharaja's palaces of the 1920s. Back at the hotel's
Late Lounge
(open until 3:00am), we enjoy their signature apple flavored cocktail
The Bielowieza
and start plans for our next trip!
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