In the stillness of a May afternoon, the Kelani River initially seems at peace.
As it flows through the central highlands of Sri Lanka, rainforest rises over rocky banks with birdsong heard all around; a black eagle circling overhead, kites and cuckoos in the distance.
But here, in this high and lush landscape, the weather can be unpredictable.
White water rafting
On a stretch of water popular for white water rafting, rains come often and within minutes of launching our inflatable vessel, the showers begin.
At an altitude of 1000m above sea level, the flow on Sri Lanka’s fourth longest river increases as we navigate grade 2 and 3 rapids.
The sky darkens and a sudden torrential downpour gives the river a new edge; we’re soon bumping over rapids and paddling furiously to maintain direction as our guide Nuwan steers from the rear.
Our speed increases with the river’s flow, with adrenaline levels rising until we reach an inlet just after the midpoint of our descent.
We hop ashore, moor up, and after briefly sheltering from the rain, cross one of the bridges straddling the river and clamber up the side of a gushing tributary.
“We’re now canyoning,” announces Nuwan, as we negotiate pathways flowing with muddy water that an hour earlier were dry.
Second descent
Still wearing helmets and lifejackets, we begin a second descent, this time without a raft.
Jumping off four-meter-high rocks into swirling pools, surging into gulleys and inlets, sliding down rapids, stepping across stones, and allowing ourselves to be swept along the well-mapped route, we lose altitude in arguably the most exciting of manners.
Eventually, tiring after the freefall watery descent, we re-board the raft for the final rapids along the 5km stretch of Sri Lanka’s main whitewater region.
Towards the lower sector, Nuwan drops in a surprising fact, pointing out a spot that was immortalized in movie history.
“This is where the 1956 film Bridge on the River Kwai was actually filmed,” he says, referring to the portrayal of the World War II story of the so-called Death Railway on the border of Thailand and Burma in the Academy Award-winning production.
Secluded hotel
Drenched and drained, but having had the time of our lives, we head back to the Moksha Rainforest Boutique Hotel, which lies a three-hour drive inland from Negombo.
Hotels are often described as secluded, but the word truly applied to the Moksha. Hidden in the rain forest, it is slender and narrow to blend in the with landscape.
A base for activities such as rafting or birdwatching, rubber trees grow around it alongside plants bearing coffee, vanilla, cinnamon, clove and cardamon.
The eight spacious rooms lie in a peaceful setting with a great restaurant – dinner, for example, is cashew rice with a selection of fish and chicken curries, beans and chilli, daal and roti bread.
There is a pool and unexpectedly a volleyball court, though we soon learn that despite this country’s love of cricket, volleyball is actually the national sport.
Birdwatching walks
The next morning, we’re out at 6am; trees hang heavy with droplets from overnight rain as we set off, with the moisture giving the canopy an extra verdant sheen.
The rainforest is already awake as we step onto the springy suspended bridge across the Kelani River, passing smartly-dressed schoolchildren emerging from homesteads in the undergrowth. Lessons start early in the forest.
Our guide, Videsh Ambegoda from Blue Lanka Tours – which organises tailored itineraries across the country - identifies bird calls and sightings as we sink deeper into the forest: green-billed cuckoo, yellow-billed babbler, red-vented bulbul and the national bird of Sri Lanka, the jungle fowl.
The foliage is a feast for the eyes, coffee and tea, banana plantains (a sample of the 50 different varieties in the country) and the 30 types of mango. There’s pepper and the cannonball tree – so-called because of the density of its hanging fruit – rambutan, durian, jackfruit, orange, betel, cocoa and coconut.
The greater coucal booms out, then the yellow-eared bulbul joins in, while a white-throated kingfisher shows up along with the common tailorbird. The forest is truly in full voice.
This continues as the path branches down towards a tributary of the Kenali, tumbling over the Makula Falls that disrupt the flow into white rivulets.
We then re-cross the caramel Kenali on a paruwa (small ferry) manned by a wiry tillerman who guides us to the opposite bank for 200 rupees (around 70 cents) and back to Moksha.
Wildlife wonderland
Wildlife spotting is a theme of this leg of the tour.
For all its temples, historic sites and beaches, Sri Lanka is a country where you can discover your wilder side and get closer to nature.
Hiking through tea plantations and jeep safaris through national parks highlight the country’s natural wonders.
Yala National Park, in the far south-east of the island, is renowned for its elephants and occasional leopard sightings.
Expect also to see spotted deer, gray langur monkeys, pelicans, peacocks, painted stork, heron, lapwing, mongoose, sloth bear and even crocodiles basking on the water’s edge as buffalo wallow.
At Bundala National Park the terrain is wetland and the emphasis on bird life. Eagles and egrets, spoonbill, cormorant and black-headed ibis are common.
We are accompanied by Panath Dissanayake, the sustainability lead at Jetwing Jungle Lodge, where we are staying.
“While Yala is famous for leopard and elephants,” he explains, “at Bundala visitors can see around 150 different species of birds.”
Luxury hotels
My accommodation was a comfortable one-bedroom residence at Jetwing Jungle Lodge with veranda and the sound of waves from the Indian Ocean not far away.
It has al fresco dining, an infinity pool, and is a peaceful base for exploring the nearby wildlife parks. But don’t be surprised to spot an occasional elephant wandering through.
With 10 lodges, it is part of the Jetwing chain across Sri Lanka, a hotel grouping that works to be sustainable while retaining the individuality of its residences.
Jetwing Lighthouse at Galle, my next stop, was different again with 80 rooms overlooking the sea, while Jetwing Beachfront at Negombo spills out onto a sandy beach through palm trees.
If you explore the tea country in the central heights of the island, Jetwing St Andrews offers a further dimension, set in a colonial style residence of wood-panelled restaurants and bars, manicured gardens and its own farm.
The Pekoe Trail
In Sri Lanka, a predominantly Buddhist country, you’re never far from tea.
Across the highlands, the hillsides are lined with bushes with waterfalls tumbling between them as roadways wind back and forth with the altitude nearing 2000m above sea level.
One way to learn more about Sri Lankan tea is to walk parts of the Pekoe Trail, a 300km route from Kandy to Kandapola and divided into 22 stages.
It utilizes trails designed in the mid-1800s, which are still used today, to take the harvested tea leaves from the hillsides to the factories for processing.
Founder of the trail, well-traveled Spaniard Miguel Cunat, explains that the 19th century network is now doubling as a 21st century tourist attraction, whilst retaining its original purpose.
As you wander through the plantations, you will see women plucking leaves and throwing them into bags on their backs. You can also take factory tours, such as at the Pedro Tea Factory on the final stage of the route.
Cinnamon and Arrack
A visit to the Mirissa Hills Cinnamon Museum estate not far from Galle is where you can discover how cinnamon sticks are crafted by expert peelers and then dried into the form that we recognize to use in our recipes at home.
For a flavor of the local brew, head to Galle Fort - the largest in South Asia - to learn about arrack, the popular liquor made from the sap of the unopened coconut flower
Taster sessions ($50) are held at The Ropewalk bar at Galle Fort Hotel. Set within the streets, shops, bars and historic buildings of the fort area, here general manager Claire Holman expertly talks through various strengths of arrack and pairs them with food.
For natural wonders and wildlife, and flavors to set the tastebuds alight, Sri Lanka has magical experiences to offer. But with its long history, culture, beaches and highland terrain, there’s always so much more to go back for.
*Mark Nicholls was a guest of the Sri Lanka Tourism Promotion Bureau, Blue Lanka Tours and Jetwing Hotels.
FACTBOX:
Mark Nicholls stayed at the Moksha Rainforest Boutique Hotel at Kitulgala (www.moksha.hotel.lk); Jetwing Jungle Lodge (www.jetwinghotels.com/jetwingjunglelodge) at Yala; Jetwing St Andrew’s (www.jetwinghotels.com/jetwingstandrews) at Nuwara Eliya; and Jetwing Lighthouse at Galle (www.jetwinghotels.com/jetwinglighthouse). He travelled with Blue Lanka Tours (www.bluelankatours.com), which create tailor-made journeys through Sri Lanka.
White water rafting was with Rafting World Adventure, based on Ginigathhena Road, Kitulgala ($60); tours and tea taster sessions can booked for Pedro Tea Estate (Nuwara Eliya Info - The Official Website of Nuwara Eliya - Pedro Tea Estate); for more information on The Pekoe Trail (The Pekoe Trail - Sri Lanka's Celebrated Long Distance Trail); Arrack tasting (ROPEWALK); Mirissa Hills Cinnamon Museum (www.mirissahills.com/museum.html) and Yala National Park (www.yalasrilanka.lk) admission $30. Sri Lanka Tourism Promotion Bureau: (www.srilanka.travel)
