Weird hobbies, anyone? How about spending your earned vacation in tent or on a motorcycle seat? How about doing both? If it sounds scary and uncomfortable enough, then it’s my type of hobby. I traveled on a motorcycle in India, Iran, Scandinavia, Vietnam, Russia and Thailand and this small article is a selection of field notes and some tips I took on my recent trip to Iceland on a motorbike. Ever since people's attention to this cosmic land of eternal cold has grown, I decided to find out what is so tempting about it.
Iceland is located far away from continental Europe. As I could not use the plane, it was the Smyril Line ferry from Denmark that I caught to sail to Iceland. The road took three and a half days. It is pretty expensive, - a roundtrip ticket costs almost 900 euros (including the bike) — the price for which you are given a bed in a shared cabin solely, and not even the most comfortable one. Of course there are more pricey and comfortable options, although it is important to book ahead, especially during the high season (brief Icelandic “Summer” is basically July and August). The time on board flew by unnoticed, for there was plenty of entertainment, including bars, reasonably priced restaurants, a movie theater, and even a gym with a swimming pool. And I must admit that the 900 euro price tag was worth it.
On the way, the ferry stops in the Faroe Islands, so you'll have the opportunity to visit their picturesque capital, Torshavn.
After that, you head straight to Sigizfjordur, where you finally set foot on the land of Iceland. Sigizfjordur is incredibly lovely because of the deep fjords that surround it. To get to the capital, drive 700 kilometers on Highway 1, which runs past almost all of the major population centers and along the entire coast, which is a huge advantage of traveling by automobile or motorcycle because you can see all of Iceland's northern beauty.
One minor but helpful piece of advice I learned the hard way: do check the weather map before setting off in Iceland. The weather is a deciding factor in choosing a path to follow or a route to travel. It is constantly changing, so the sun might shine bright in the afternoon, whereas it's pouring one hour later. Even the summertime does not guarantee an escape from possible hurricanes with showers and hails at the temperature of +5 degrees (in August!). Even the summertime does not guarantee an escape from possible hurricanes with showers and hails at the temperature of +5 degrees (in August!). Although, if your luck is in, you will travel at +20 (ok, more likely +15) with a clear turquoise sky above. But do prepare anyway — and do not rely purely on the power of a chance, as you might not be given one by the tough Northern nature. Prepare your vehicle wisely: if the wind blows too strong, it could blow away a motorcycle or even a tiny car, so it is definitely not recommended to travel on windy days. For such drastic weather changes, it is the climate to be blamed. The Arctic winds, Gulf Stream waters, and local glaciers affect the Icelandic environment. Each glacier can affect weather within a radius of 100 kilometers (my personal estimate, no science or statistics here) , so you might already get the possible outcomes that several glaciers can have on the environment. A weather check is essential one more reason: thick fog and clouds. Nasty weather can ruin every plan, making the roads unsuitable for traveling — saying nothing about perils. To make the most of your time in Iceland, keep an eye on the weather prediction for the next few hours and always have a backup destination and route in mind if the weather prevents you from traveling to the first favorable option. I used the Windy app as well as https://en.vedur.is/weather/forecasts/areas/ website for real time weather monitoring.
As I indicated, the lesson was harsh as I was uninformed of the forecast and arrived during a storm. Thinking that it would not matter where to go under these conditions, I took the southern route — a colossal mistake, as I found out later. I traveled for three days and 250 kilometers (already tells you something about the conditions) with no sun and hope of escape from the stormy weather on the horizon, and during this time, the temperature never got higher than +10 degrees. So, to add to the last piece of advice, have a dry and warm area in mind where you may rest your feet after your lengthy journey.
So the plan for my trip was the following: I intended to start from Sigizfjordur, then drive across Iceland, visiting all the coolest (pun unintended) locations and making the entire circle with Sigizfjordur being the returning point. The roads in Iceland is a separate topic for appreciation. Apart from providing one with stunning scenery all the way long, some of the lesser roads make perfect examples of brutal routes for everyone who wants to try driving or riding in extreme conditions.
Sometimes there were kilometers without asphalting, and sometimes there was no road, thanks to recent floods and rivers crossing. As I said before, choose your vehicle, keeping in mind the road conditions — not every path can be crossed on a motorcycle or a sedan.That’s why Iceland is full of some of the coolest vehicles I’ve seen in my life - monster trucks, rally SUVs and 4х4 RVs - sometimes you don’t seem “normal” cars at all which reminds you of a Mad Max or Hunger Games setting.
Another tip: keep fuel on hand, as you may not come across any communities or gas stations for 200 kilometers or more.
The reasonable question is: why visit Iceland since it has such confusing conditions paired with risky locations? Well, the answer is plain and simple — the beauty of this place is worth every effort you pay to see it. It is pure land with majestic glaciers and mighty mountains, sleeping (and even woke if you are lucky) volcanoes, geysers and charming tundras. Did you know by the way that the word “geyser” itself comes from Iceland? It is a toponim - an area where one of the biggest geysers in the world is located and apparently one of the first places where Europeans encountered this natural wonder. Despite being one of the most economically developed countries, Iceland is still untouched by humans and is open for any investigation. You do not even need to travel off the road that much to see beautiful places — almost all striking landmarks are located along the main ring road across the island, which makes them easily attainable for all travelers and tourists.
Pack some necessary equipment in advance if you risk exploring the land slightly deeper. I had a tent and a gas stove to stay in a fantastic place on my route in a campsite without needing to search for a hotel. In Iceland, camping grounds are everywhere, so finding one is not difficult at all. These places provide you with everything you need, from the bathroom and drying equipment for your clothes to power banks and charging batteries. Campsites are beneficial for one more reason: being relatively inexpensive (usually, a night in your own camp costs approximately 20 dollars), they allow you to stay in the most beautiful places in the country. The sunsets and sunrises will be spectacular; you can count on them. Hotels may also be found in plenty, albeit their prices are ridiculously high even for the most modest options. Furthermore, bookings must be made in advance due to the high demand, particularly during the short high season.
Getting back to my experience on the road, I have already stated that I chose a motorcycle to cross Iceland. You can see from my past advice that such a decision was not the wisest, but I couldn't pass up the opportunity to explore the country on my bike - weird hobbies, remember? It is always unpredictable and challenging, being hugely rewarding at the same time. In Iceland, riding a motorbike was way more complicated than usual — but, frankly, even after going through every poor riding condition and difficulties faced on the road, I would not choose any other means of transport. The landscape, locales, and atmosphere of a motorcycle trip alone were the most significant recompense for all my tiny problems.
As for places I visited and want to recommend, I could point out the northern city of Husavik, which is worldwide famous for its mountains that seem to reach the sky and the unique opportunity to see whales.
The South Shore should also find its place on your list of locations. It offers the famous black beaches, and the town of Vic, which is often referred to as the "capital" of the south, is also located there. The South Shore has many natural pearls of Iceland, such as numerous waterfalls and must-see (if you ask me) Jokulsarlon Glacier Lagoon.
If you prefer to go to the country's northern side, you should try swimming in the hot springs near the northern town of Myvatn. Its terminal waters are constantly crowded with tourists. Volcanoes are also what Iceland is proud of, with Fagradalsfjall being one of the most famous ones. Lucky tourists can witness its eruption. However, I did not manage to see it. My journey was, anyway, no less pleasant.
Iceland is a cold, peaceful place with northern excellence and speed. It requires work if you want to make your stay excellent, but it rewards you with views you will remember for the rest of your life. You will get the most out of your time there with careful preparation and scheduling – at least, I tried.
