Paradise Lost? Not Here

Antigua, Barbuda's sister island, is the stepping-stone. Coming off my international flight, I am met and escorted to an awaiting helicopter. It's a 15-minute hop to Barbuda (pronounced Barb-YOU-da) and I am booked at one of the island's only two hotels -- Lighthouse Bay Resort. The aerial arrival is spectacular. The property sits on a narrow stretch of land between the stunning turquoise Caribbean Sea and the blue-green Codrington Lagoon. We touch down on the helipad, steps from the resort's doorstep.

Lighthouse Bay Resort aerial view with helipad and boat dock (the only two ways to arrive here)

The welcoming staff greets incoming guests with smiles, cool towels and refreshing cocktails. General Manager, Terrence Linton, leads me into the elongated open-air lobby that frames the view of the picture-perfect Caribbean at its end and draws us to it. We are just steps from the turquoise sea fringed with pink coral sand. Lighthouse Bay sits alone. Untouched sea front stretches 17 miles on either side of the resort.

Terrence begins with a brief tour of the property. There is a library, an al fresco seaside restaurant, and a lighthouse bar topped with observation deck. The central pool area is complete with hammocks swinging between palm trees. I can't stop smiling.

Blue Whale Suite #21 living/dining area

There are just 9 rooms and suites and I am booked into the grand suite "Blue Whale" with the resort's only private beachfront terrace. I usually travel with my husband but work intervened and I am here on my own. My suite's expansive living-dining area offers wrap-around sea views. The master bath includes double bowl vanities, tub for two and huge walk-in shower. More than I need perhaps but shouldn't “splurge” be part of every single traveler's vocabulary?

There are 8 other accommodations -- 4 Master Suites with separate bedroom, kitchen galley, living/dining room and lagoon-view terraces. The 4 Master Suites can be connected with adjoining Studios to make 2-bedroom/2-bathroom suites perfect for families or couples traveling together.

The resort is remote, but the suites are fully equipped with the latest technology: laptops, WiFi, Vonage phones for free long distance calling, flat panel satellite TVs, iPod docking stations, air conditioning, mini-fridge stocked with beverages, Nespresso machines and more...I feel right at home.

Blue Whale Suite beachfront terrace offers direct access to beach and outdoor shower

A quick change into my swimsuit and I'm out the door and onto the beach. My afternoon is spent drifting in the warm, crystal clear water and walking the expanse of powdery beach. I can't get enough but sunset is approaching and I need to get ready for evening.

After a refreshing shower, I meander past the pool to the Lighthouse Bar. Then with a fresh fruit tropical cocktail in hand, I climb to the top of the lighthouse where I sit alone and watch the sun set over the Caribbean. This observation deck can be reserved for a private massage or an unforgettable romantic dinner for two. My own moment of solitude is magical.

Sunset over Caribbean

Tonight dinner is a beach barbeque with tables surrounded by torches in the sand. I am a vegan and the chef accommodates me with delicious grilled vegetables and tasty rice-and-herb-stuffed peppers. (Did you know that being a vegan naturally protects your skin from mosquito bites and sunburns?)

I occasionally eat seafood when I travel, so I had to try some of the famous Barbudan lobster. It is succulent and delicious, so I will order it at another meal. After dinner, guests are treated to quite a show in this remote corner of the world -- billions of stars illuminate the ink black sky!

17-mile "Low Bay" Beach in front of the resort

I awake after a restful night's sleep and again make a beeline for the water. There is no better way to spend a morning than walking along a primordial beach. At breakfast, freshly baked breads, croissants and pastries tempt but I hold out for the banana pancakes and fresh tropical fruit. My table in the open-air restaurant is a stone's throw from the gently lapping waves.

Frigate Bird Sanctuary

Today I arrange a tour from Lighthouse Bay's boat dock through the lagoon to see the Frigate Bird Sanctuary, one of the most important nesting sites in the world for these endangered birds. During mating season from September to April, the male bird displays a huge red breast to attract females. These birds cannot walk or swim; they soar high in the clouds and live solely on fish. Our guide tells us that if one submerges too deeply and cannot take off, others will swoop down and lift the struggling bird. Even when not performing such heroics, they are fascinating to observe.

Back at the resort for lunch, I keep my promise and order the Barbudan lobster salad. It is delectable and one of the resort's specialties. Then I settle into an afternoon at the beach and decide to catch up on reading. I brought my own books, but there are also plenty to choose from in the library. My afternoon is punctuated by another amazing sunset over the Caribbean.

Executive Chef Lennox Cadogan holding a Barbudan lobster

Executive Chef, Lennox Cadogan, finds me by the Lighthouse Bar to discuss dinner. He had the privilege of cooking for Princess Diana and young Princes William and Harry when they vacationed in Barbuda for four consecutive years from 1994-1997. I can imagine why they would return year after year to such a haven.

Dinner is amazing with four courses and choices for vegetarians and meat eaters alike. There is locally caught Baked Snapper, Roasted Leg of Lamb with mango chutney and plantain chips, lobster quiche (Princess Diana's favorite), organic vegetable salad, Barbuda Pumpkin Soup, Homemade Gnocchi and more. Dessert is a choice of Coconut Creme Brulee or White Chocolate Mousse. Chef Lennox's passionate culinary creations are beautifully presented and definitely fit for royalty.

Horseback riding on the beach

Today's plan is to join other guests for a five-minute boat ride across the lagoon to the town of Codrington, home of most of the island's 1,500 residents. We hire a local guide, Lynton Thomas and learn that in 1904, the British government gave joint ownership of the island back to the inhabitants. When a Barbudan turns 18, he or she is entitled to a free plot of land on which to build a house. No one is allowed to sell to foreigners. Roads for the most part are unpaved and we see many more wild donkeys, guinea hens and cactus than cars. This is one paradise that will not be paved over into a parking lot!

On the tour we also see caves on the Atlantic side of the island and the remains of an old sugar mill, but the highlight for me, is visiting Princess Diana Beach, officially named on July 1, 2011 on what would have been her 50th birthday. This is another of Barbuda's spectacular stretches of beach with the most amazing colored sand and sea.

We return to Lighthouse Bay for some horseback riding on the beach before lunch. Later in the afternoon I book a massage up in the lighthouse. The treatment is so relaxing; I feel I'm floating away. Some day I'll return with my husband to share the romance of this extraordinary setting. For now I'm pleased to rediscover how traveling solo can heighten the connection with one's surroundings.

Morning view of the beach from the lighthouse observation deck

It is my final morning and I take a last long walk along the beach, remembering the beautiful sunrises over the lagoon, the gorgeous Caribbean sunsets, and the billions of stars in the night sky. It didn't rain while I was here, but I've heard that showers are followed by rainbows. This is truly one of the world's most unspoiled natural environments. You don't come across many places like this anymore -- PARADISE FOUND!

More information: Lighthouse Bay Resort, Barbuda