For some, the very word ‘cruise’ conjures up images of crowded buffets, chaotic pool decks, and the uneasy feeling of being stuck at sea with a few thousand strangers. Those people clearly have never sailed with Crystal on the Crystal Symphony.
Crystal Symphony is not a floating theme park. It is a refined way of moving through the world; a vessel for travel in its highest form. Sailing from Civitavecchia to Marseille during the Monaco Grand Prix, with long, Riviera-lit days in between, I came to understand why Crystal has earned such a devoted following. When done well, a cruise isn’t a detour from travel—it’s travel, elevated.
Crystal Cruises was founded in 1988 and quickly set the gold standard for understated luxury at sea. Its loyal clientele valued space, quiet sophistication, and peerless service. But in 2022, the line abruptly ceased operations. For a moment, it seemed the Crystal era had ended. Then came its revival—led by the A&K Travel Group (AKTG). The company’s acquisition of its two ships —Crystal Symphony and Crystal Serenity—wasn’t just a relaunch. It was a thoughtful resurrection.
Under AKTG’s direction, the ships were meticulously restored. Interiors were reimagined with subtle elegance and more space per passenger, service standards refined, and a renewed sense of purpose returned to every corridor. Crystal was back with a deeper polish.
Palm Court
Crystal Symphony carries just more than 600 guests but feels far smaller. There’s space to breathe here—wide staircases, open decks, a central swimming pool with enough chaises for all. My Sapphire Veranda Suite felt more like a suite at a five-star hotel than a ship’s guest room: a walk-in closet, a marble bathroom with large rain shower, and a double-wide terrace where I spent time watching the coastline pass in painterly hues.
What struck me most wasn’t the ship’s design, though it’s lovely in its elegant palettes of soft color and clean lines. It was the ship’s pace. Time aboard feels…generous. You’re not rushed. You’re not idle. You simply move through the day with ease. Breakfast when you want it. A film in the dedicated theater if you’re in the mood. Music in the afternoon at tea time. A cocktail before dinner, perhaps with live piano music in the background. Or maybe you skip it all and read by the pool. Everything is offered, all-inclusive. Nothing is imposed.
Sapphire Veranda Suite
The service is stealthily astonishing. Crew members know names, preferences, how you take your coffee, whether you like still or sparkling water. Your suite is refreshed twice daily nearly the minute you step out. Everything folded, placed, adjusted—without a trace of having been touched. Canapés appear each evening, perfectly arranged. The butler doesn’t ask what you want, he already knows. My fridge stays stocked with complimentary beverages: champagne, wine, Perrier, a few sodas, and beer. But it’s not about excess, it’s about ease. The greatest indulgence is when everything unfolds smoothly, without needing to ask.
Dining aboard Crystal Symphony reflects that same philosophy. There are nine venues, each with its own atmosphere and focus, all united by excellence. At Waterside, the main dining room, I lingered at dinner over thoughtful, seasonal menus and wines to match. No reservations necessary, just the finest cuisine served with quiet professionalism. Additional dinner venues, for which reservations are necessary but never unobtainable, include Umi Uma, Nobu Matsuhisa’s signature restaurant at sea, delivered its famed black cod and flawless sashimi, Osteria d’Ovidio served Italian cuisine, and the newest culinary addition to the ship, Beefbar, in partnership with the internationally known Beefbar restaurant, where the menu features a blend of elevated street food and premium cuts of beef. For ultimate convenience, 24-hour in-suite dining is also available, allowing you to enjoy meals in the comfort of your own suite.
Waterside
Umi Uma
For breakfast and lunch, I turned to The Marketplace for its stunning buffet of nearly anything I desired. After lunch, Scoops, the dedicated gelato bar, quickly became my sweet little secret. One scoop turned into two, then into a daily ritual—easily justified by the 15,000 steps I was logging during shore excursions and laps around the Promenade Deck 7, where 3.7 laps equals a mile. But this wasn’t just any gelato. Scoops serves Badiani, the legendary Florentine gelateria crafting artisan gelato since 1932. For an afternoon pick-me-up, the casual Bistro provided a perfect cappuccino.
Osteria d’Ovidio
Scoops Gelato Bar
The ship’s entertainment offers something for everyone. Daytime programming is thoughtfully curated to meet the moment. When we docked in Monaco during the Grand Prix, former F1 driver Derek Daly gave an insider’s take on the race, complete with personal anecdotes from his time on the circuit. In each port, destination lecturer Doug Nelson offered rich, nuanced previews that went far beyond tourist basics. His talks became essential context for what we were about to experience on shore. The ship’s guest artist led afternoon watercolor classes; a full library was stocked with literature and games. And shoppers found much to desire in the several onboard boutiques.
By night, the Galaxy Lounge hosts polished stage productions and classical soloists. (“Rocket Man: A Tribute to Elton John” by C.J. Marvin was particularly engaging, as was showband vocalist Anna Alonso’s “Echoes of Bossa Nova.”) The Starlight Club offers cabaret-style sets in an intimate space. Palm Court becomes the social hub by twilight, where cocktails are paired with panoramic sea views and live music. But you don’t really even seek the entertainment. You drift into it, stay awhile, move on. There’s no pressure to participate, no itinerary demanding your attention. Everything exists as a possibility. Evenings onboard taper gently. By midnight, the ship quiets.
The Library
On shore, excursions are curated but entirely flexible. In Villefranche-sur-Mer, I took an e-bike to the heights of the village, then coasted down toward Cap Ferrat’s surreal blue waters, During the Monaco Grand Prix, I found a small café atop Monaco-Ville from which I sipped limonade while watching the racers take the La Rascasse hairpin turn. In Corsica, I wandered our port town of Ajaccio with no agenda. And in Sardinia, a morning hike along the water led to a stunning turquoise bay. There, I took a dip within the Mediterranean before heading back to the ship for a late lunch and a massage within the ship’s Aurora Spa and Salon, a full service spa that rivals anything on land. The space includes ten treatment rooms, plus separate steam rooms and saunas for men and women. There’s also a relaxation lounge and a dedicated terrace lined with chaises where the quiet invites you to stay, even without a scheduled appointment.
Villefranche-sur-Mer. Photo by Fran Miller
Aurōra Spa
Each port stop was a wonder, and each tender return more than welcome. Back aboard, my suite was reset, culinary options awaited, and an afternoon by the pool beckoned.
As I disembarked in Marseille, I realized that I hadn’t had to think about anything that wasn’t worth thinking about. The logistics, the planning, the small complications that so often clutter travel—all vanished. What remained was a desire to do it all again. I came aboard for a week. I could’ve stayed for three. And still, it would not have been enough.
Photos courtesy of Crystal, except otherwise noted
