When you see him depicted in clean green robes with his long white beard, it’s hard to imagine St Patrick ever stepping out into Ireland’s great outdoors. But the Emerald Isle’s patron saint was never going to spread his message by sitting at home and using Instagram. Instead, he walked the length and breadth of the beautiful Irish countryside, clutching his staff and using the famous shamrock to tell his tales of redemption and salvation.
In the Middle Ages, when Ireland was known as the Island of Saints and Scholars, pilgrims flocked to these shores, visiting sites where both St Patrick and the famous holy men and women who came after him had left their sacred marks. In today’s post-pandemic world, the urge to get outside and embrace nature has seen a renewed interest in the island’s pilgrimage trails, allowing walkers to indulge their desire for history and culture while keeping that all-important pedometer ticking over.
It makes sense to start somewhere that has a long association with St Patrick. Nestled among the drumlins of the Lecale Peninsula of County Down, Downpatrick is one of the oldest towns on the island, and our patron saint spent much of his time in and around the area.
The Saint Patrick Centre hosts the excellent Ego Patricius – The Story of Saint Patrick exhibition and explores his legacy, which goes well beyond the razzmatazz you see every March 17. With the help of interactive displays, historic items and the words of the saint himself, you’ll follow his story from boyhood slavery to global fame.
The centre is also the meeting place for the St Patrick’s Pilgrim Walk along the Pilgrim’s Way. This guided tour goes through stunning countryside to visit important sites in the saint’s story and is well worth your time if you have it.
Should you decide to explore the area alone, be sure to visit Saul Church just outside Downpatrick. This church was built on the quiet slopes of Slieve Patrick in 1932 to mark the location of the saint's first church in Ireland. Close by sits a large statue of the saint with unmissable views across County Down. Don’t leave without checking out the embedded bronze panels that illustrate scenes from his life, which ended on this very spot in 461AD.
About one hour’s drive west of Downpatrick, you’ll find one of the island’s newest pilgrimage trails. The Lough Erne Pilgrim Way stretches from beautiful Lough Erne in County Fermanagh to Lough Derg in County Donegal and weaves its way through Early Christian monastic sites and ghostly landmarks dotted on the lakes’ many mystic islands. From Devenish Island with its 12th-century Round Tower to the enigmatic carved stone figures on Boa Island, all the way to the cave known as St Patrick’s Purgatory on Lough Derg, the sites along this fascinating trail remain treasured places for both local communities and visitors. Officially, there are 14 points of interest on this particular route, but given there are itineraries for between one and five days, you’ll be sure to discover treasures of your own as you pass through thickets of woodland and glide across waters brimming with life.
Alternatively, you can head south from Downpatrick and in just over an hour, you’ll reach the town of Drogheda in County Louth – the starting point for the Boyne Valley Camino. This self-guided 25km looped walk was masterminded by local walking groups. It follows the historic River Boyne through beautiful Townley Hall woods to the village of Tullyallen, along the Boyne Canal before returning to Drogheda along the stunning Boyneside Trail. Along the way, there are several places to rest your weary bones or replenish your soul. The romantic ruins of Mellifont Abbey are a great place to stop off and contemplate the area’s place in Irish history. Not only was this the first Cistercian monastery in the country but, centuries later, it was the headquarters of William of Orange during the pivotal Battle of the Boyne. This momentous battle saw the so-called “King Billy” defeat the Catholic King James 2nd and thus change the course of not just Irish but European History. You can find out more about that battle and its importance when you visit the fascinating Battle of the Boyne Visitor Centre at Oldbridge Estate. Housed in a recently restored 18th-century house, the centre contains original weapons and various items from the time, as well as a laser model of the battlefield. It is a treasure trove for anyone who wants to find out more about this decisive episode in the story of this island.
While most visitors to St James’s Gate in Dublin are there to commence a different kind of pilgrimage, it is more than worth noting that the home of Guinness is one of the official starting points for the world’s most famous walk - the Camino de Santiago – and predates the arrival of the brewery by centuries. The nearby St James’s Church keeps the link alive through the work of the Camino Society of Ireland, which is based there. They suggest several routes on what they have dubbed the Celtic Caminos, and one of those can be taken from the church down to Bray in Wicklow.
The Dublin Coastal Route passes churches, villages, towns, beaches and hills along the capital’s stunning and underrated coastline. James Joyce based his masterpiece Ulysses on some of the landmarks and sights you’ll see along your route, including the beautiful Sandycove, from where his famous day out in Dublin began in a Martello Tower close to the Forty Foot swimming area. Today, people brave the cold waters all through the year, but if you don’t fancy a bracing plunge, then head straight for the town of Bray and treat yourself to some fish and chips at The Henry and Rose on Bray’s pretty promenade. Finish the night off with a pint and some traditional music in the nearby Harbour Bar.
After a good night's rest, head west to pick up again with the trail of St Patrick. The majestic Croagh Patrick in County Mayo has been a pilgrimage route for centuries. Every year on the last Sunday in July, thousands of pilgrims climb Ireland’s holiest mountain to honour the saint who is said to have spent 40 days fasting on its peak. Some even do it barefoot, a phenomenon that has become a lot easier with the recent upgrading of the path. Walkers are welcome at any time of year, but do come prepared. At just over 700m metres, the climb might be short, but it is steep. The rewards are spectacular, however, with breathtaking views out over Clew Bay’s splattered archipelago. Legend has it that there are 365 islands out there, and while that’s probably not true, it is true that one of them was once owned by Beatles legend John Lennon. Alas, his plans to build his dream bolthole on Dorinish Island never came to pass. Having descended with your soul now nourished, you’ll need nourishment for the body. Luckily, Campbell’s pub sits right at the foot of the mountain and Nell’s famous Seafood Chowder is just the ticket for hungry walkers. For those prepared to march on, you can take The Great Western Greenway into the beautiful town of Westport and soak in its many great pubs and restaurants. An Port Mór is a restaurant to remember and prides itself on using fresh seasonal ingredients in beautifully presented courses. If you’re looking for a nightcap, Matt Molloy’s is a rustic gem with live music every night of the year.
By now, the soles of your feet might be worn down, but if you have one more trek left in you, and your boots are still sturdy, we’d recommend County Kerry’s Cnoc na dTobar. Legend and archaeology tell us that this has been a sacred mountain since long before the arrival of St Patrick. Pagan locals worshipped here long before the symbol of the shamrock, and once you get to the top it’s not hard to see why. The summit of Cnoc na dTobar offers glorious views into Kerry, West Cork and out over Dingle Bay as far as the Blasket Islands and The Skelligs – a UNESCO World Heritage Site made famous most recently as Luke Skywalker’s refuge in the last Star Wars trilogy.
Long before the famous Jedi got here, these rocky outcrops were inhabited by medieval monks who dedicated themselves to a life of austerity and hardship. Today, visitors can take a forty-five-minute boat trip from the marina at Portmagee and spend an afternoon wandering Skellig Michael’s famous beehive huts. If you are lucky enough to get there, it’s worth taking a moment to sit down on a traditional stone wall and imagine what life alone in silence on the islets must have been like for these holy men. You might be tempted to check your pedometer, but we’d suggest you leave it until you’re back on the mainland, sipping on a pint and looking back on the many new memories of your trip to Ireland and its fascinating pilgrimage trails.
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