Cast your eyes over the edge of the infinity pool, and the defining green panorama of olive trees tumbles away before you.
The color changes to turquoise blue as the tree line meets the sea in the distance while to the left, mountains rise above the Bay of Kissamos.
As sunlight glistens off the Aegean, there is little sound apart from the light breeze gently brushing the landscape and bushes around the hillside villa in western Crete, punctuated by the vivid pink of bougainvillea, oleander, and the purple of flowering garlic.
Soothing is the word.
Peace and stillness
We are comfortably ensconced in Charisma, a spacious two-bedroom villa not far from the village of Agios Georgios and 40 minutes away from the marvelous Venetian harbor town of Chania, the capital of western Crete.
The accommodation is on the hillside above the Bay of Kissamos where 20 years ago, there was nothing apart from the remains of the chapel of St Constantine and Helen.
Built with locally-sourced stone during a sensitive construction process that also saw the chapel restored and whitewashed as a rejuvenated place of worship, Charisma is one of eight discreetly placed Youphoria villas’ residences.
With a fully-equipped kitchen and lounge, the master bedroom upstairs has its own balcony and table and chairs, while the second bedroom at ground level opens onto sun-loungers and the poolside.
Both share the fabulous view – the first thing you enjoy as you awake, the morning drawn in through expansive windows.
“It is the light that Crete is famous for, and these amazing views over the Bay of Kissamos,” owner Vassilis Gialamarakis tells me as we chat over a coffee.
Architectural statement
The Sea View villas lie within easy reach of Western Crete’s splendid beaches, tavernas, rural villages, and archaeological sites.
A true oasis of peace, individuality and luxury, the emphasis is on high-quality contemporary living combined with minimalist architecture, high-end fabrics, and stylish furnishings.
Yet it nestles neatly among the surroundings; a modern architectural statement on an ancient hillside that is as Cretan as it gets.
Beneath, the olive trees are among some 60 million on the island and a mainstay of the Cretan economy and its cuisine.
Indeed, you’ll find a bottle of olive oil made from the Gialamarakis’ families own olive trees in the kitchen as you arrive.
And also to help you along, within the handbook, there’s even a guide to useful Greek phrases from Ya sas for hello/goodbye, kalee mera and kale spera (good morning/good evening) and of course, yassas (cheers).
Stunning beaches
Vassilis is Cretan through and through, immensely proud of his heritage, with long experience in the hospitality sector and a champion of western Crete and all it has to offer.
Of course, the villa is a great place to relax, but venture out and you discover what this part of Greece’s biggest island has to offer: beaches, mountains, remote villages, rugged terrain, healthy cuisine, lovely wines (a well-kept Cretan secret) and endless hours of sunshine.
It draws me back year on year.
If it is the beaches you seek, Falassarna with its safe water, long stretches of sand and the rising mountains as a backdrop is a short drive away.
Elsewhere, Elafonissi beach is situated on the southwestern tip of the island. Frequently ranked among the top beaches in Europe and is a place of exceptional natural beauty, where pink sand meets the warm turquoise sea.
An hour’s drive over the mountains on the southern peninsula is the lovely town of Paleochora with a sandy beach, numerous shops and tavernas and a time timeless ambience.
After relaxing on Pachia Ammos beach, stroll through the cobbled streets and explore the little shops where there’s unique handmade jewellery, artefacts and crafts.
Waterfront bars
Famously describe by Ulysses as “the cradle of European civilization,” Crete is the legendary birthplace of Zeus.
Over the centuries, all who have passed through - the Romans, Arabs, Venetians, Turks and later the Germans – left their mark on the island in terms of architecture, food and culture.
There’s much local history to absorb, archaeological sites to explore, and some are world-famous such as Knossos, which was the center of the Minoan civilization.
Closer to the villas is Gramvousa Island and Balos Lagoon and a 16th century fortress, while the Gonia monastery just above Kolymbari has an interesting museum and shaded courtyard to sit and enjoy beneath the square bell towers.
But make time to venture to Chania where the Venetian harbor has a wonderful atmosphere. Wander the old side streets, absorb the ambience, and shop for souvenirs and local goods, and then make time for a cocktail or glass of wine before a sunset dinner at somewhere like the popular Restaurant Michalis overlooking the waterfront.
Botanical gardens
The island’s geographical location, climate and variety of altitude and terrain has created an amazing diversity of flowers, plants, trees, wildlife and marine life with endemic and rare species.
You can enjoy these as you explore, or for a closer insight, a few miles inland from Chania is the Botanical Park and Gardens of Crete.
Well worth a visit, it covers some 20 hectares and hosts hundreds of types of fruit trees, herbs, flowers, medicinal and ornamental plants in a uniquely-landscaped park at the foot of the White Mountains.
Follow a path around the hillside for a couple of hours and then enjoy a drink or even dinner at the garden restaurant. The food is excellent.
Samaria Gorge
The villas are a good base for those who enjoy walking with a range of routes around western Crete to suit all abilities and levels of fitness. Routes follow the coast near Nopegia, there is a fabulous walk from Paleochora to Elafonissi or through gorges such as Agia Irini Gorge, known for its flora and fauna.
And for those with a real sense of adventure, navigate the Samaria Gorge in the White Mountains. Starting inland from the Omalos Plateau at a height of over 1,200 metres, it descends towards the coast with an opportunity to experience the beautiful flora and fauna and the 600m sheer cliff sides on the way.
Towards the end of the Gorge, traverse the “Iron Gates” where the cliffs narrow to a few metres wide. At the end of this 17km walk, you reach the village of Agia Roumeli and can reward yourself with a refreshing dip in the Libyan Sea, cool beer and late lunch before catching a boat out to Sougia or Chora Sfakion.
The gorge is best done on an organized trip as you start from the centre of the island, end up on the coast and sail to a different location, where your bus will await.
It’s a long challenging day where you’ll need good footwear and a level of fitness but its rewarding along the way, and you end with a huge sense of satisfaction and achievement.
Cretan cuisine
Wherever you settle, there’s normally a good taverna not far away from the villa. The Gramvousa restaurant in Agios Georgios has a good reputation, drive further west to Sfinari for famous fish lunches and the local kakavia fish soup, or enjoy the restaurants overlooking the beachfront at Kolymbari. Diktina has long been a favorite of mine with its blend of fish, seafood and meat dishes.
Try the local dishes, stifado, souvlaki, saganaki, moussaka, even snails on garlic, grilled prawns, or a Cretan/Greek salad as a main or side order.
Cretan cuisine is said to be the healthiest on the planet, based on the locally produced olive oil.
While its great to eat out, you’ll also enjoy shopping at local stores in Kissamos for fresh fruit and vegetables to serve up at the villa.
For fresh bread, and a Greek coffee, there’s a bakery and coffee shop half a mile from Youphoria’s sea view villas.
Pick up sardines or pork chops too, grill them on the barbecue and eat al fresco as the sun goes down beneath the poolside pergola, with that simply mesmerising view.
In those special moments, the peace, the view, the stillness is all-encompassing.
FACTBOX:
Charisma is among eight Sea View Youphoria Villas close to Kissamos. Easy to reach by car from the airport, with directions provided, it is a secluded base from which to explore western Crete, or simply relax within a hillside hideaway. The villa provides all necessary cooking equipment, wifi, pool towels, and sun loungers and can book excursions on request (such as to Balos Lagoon, the Samaria Gorge or a Cretan winery or olive oil press). For details and rates, visit www.youphoriavillascrete.com
