During the electric storm, the rain pelts down, splashing in the private plunge pool on each deck of the eight tents at Puku Ridge. Sheet lightning blazes across the sky, visible through the gauze tent sides, as thunder crashes and reverberates across the Kakumbi Dambo flood plain and woodlands below. It’s a dramatic scene heralding the much longed for ‘rain down in Africa’, after the hot, dry period; a cause for rejoicing. A welcome relief after the sweltering heat, there is joy as well as moisture in the air. Where the Luangwa River was a mere dusty surface, it’s now in spate and begins to fill with fresh rain water.
Kakumbi Dambo flood plain from my tent deck
Plunge pool and stairs to the Skybed
As the storm abates, sunlight beams down through the clouds; a perfect time for a game drive in the open-sided land cruiser. My guide, John Banda, is a fountain of information and has completed Level 1 Walking Safari Guide Course. We jump off the vehicle when it is safe to do so, to look at mushrooms that are proliferating in the rain-soaked soils, Blood lilies popping up and at scurrying Harvester termites dragging bits of grass.
Blood lily
Mushrooms pop up after the rains
John knows the region well, so he drives to a tree that is a favourite of a resident female leopard. In the mud we see fresh tracks, so John surmises that she might be nearby. High up on a branch in a Sausage tree, we find her resting, her fat belly proof of her well-being and the abundance of prey species at this time of the year. Habituated to vehicles, she looks up, stretches, then bounds down the tree trunk, to stroll away across the savannah.
Female leopard
Flower of a Sausage tree (Kigelia africana)
An immature male elephant runs towards a temporary pool in the veld, to sport in thewater. He throws himself down and playfully rolls over, then lifts his trunk to squirt water, clearly having fun. Two females of this small breeding herd browse quietly, as their tiny calves suckle. The green season is renowned for being the time when many species of game drop their young. We find antelopes like Puku, Impala and Reedbuck nursing their recently birthed offspring.
African elephant
Puku calf
A young male lion - his mane still developing - looks bedraggled, battered and bruised, as well as wet. He is solitary, John says, battling to establish a territory. His face is severely scarred and his manner is cowed. We follow him for an hour, concerned by his browbeaten look. Even he has a moment of relaxation when he rolls over on some freshly sprung grass.
Solitary male lion
In safari tradition, we stop in a picturesque spot in the wild, for tea or coffee and to dip into tiffins of home-baked cookies and muffins. A splash of Amarula - a South African liqueur made with fruit from the Marula tree - adds a sweet touch to the pressed coffee. A chance to stretch and smell the petrichor, the stop is also a time to learn about birds, plus tracks and tracking from John. We spot endangered African ground hornbill and Red-necked spurfowl.
Southern ground hornbill
Red-necked spurfowl
Back at the lodge, the game viewing continues from the deck of the communal area. Bull elephants quietly lumber past, Yellow baboons are foraging, and Puku, the eponymous animal of the lodge, are grazing. Through the spotting scope I gaze at a Black snake eagle - one of 400 species in this region - poised at the top of a tree. Sightings of a pair Grey-crowned crane and a Saddle-billed stork couple are a highlight for birders. A downstairs hide makes for excellent photographic opportunities.
Yellow Baboon
Grey crowned crane
The stylish lounge section of the guest area is decorated with local craft work and art, comfortable couches, plus coffee table books begging to be perused. Served at tables set on the deck, meals are creatively presented and unfailingly tasty. Scoops of home-made ice cream are served with a Puku-shaped biscuit. Lunch and Dinner courses are paired with a selection of top quality South African wines.
Dining Deck
Covered Dining Deck
Deck next to the fire-pit
Homemade ice cream with puku-shaped shortbread
Strolling back to my tent for a postprandial snooze, I notice a scorpion feasting on copious quantities of winged termites that are taking their nuptial flights after the rain. A Spotted thick-toed gecko is also taking advantage of this swarming event. A dilemma faces me in my spacious tent, whether I should use the black stone bath, the inside or outdoors shower. Each one has the panoramic view and fragrant amenities. Because of the much need rains, especially at night, I am unable to sleep under the stars in my private Skybed. This open-air rooftop experience makes for spectacular stargazing, sensitivity to the nocturnal sounds, plus views of night predators at the waterhole. Pennant-winged nightjars may be spotted. Deck next to the fire-pit
Spotted thick-toed gecko
Tent with gauze sides
A highlight of the emerald season shortly before the rains, is the arrival of hundreds of Carmine Bee-eaters, decked in crimson plumage. Holes in the banks of the Luangwa River are made as nests. In dynamic aerial displays above these breeding sites, the Carmine bee-eaters confuse hunting raptors, making it harder for them to single out individual prey. Pods of hippos honk, bellow and grumble in the river, as they gather together again after the rains. Dominant males roar and open their mouths wide to display their impressive tusk-like canines, to intimidate other male hippo by flaunting their ivory.
Immature Southern carmine bee-eater
Southern carmine bee-eaters nesting in the river bank
Each afternoon game drive ends with dusk and night-time spotting using red-light protocol, which minimises disturbance to wildlife. Our tracker, George Banda, skilfully picks up the eye-shine of nocturnal animals, enabling him to see their height above ground, how far apart the eyes are and their colour, to identify the species sighted. As well as Small-spotted genet and an African civet, George spots a spider in the grass!
Sunset gin and tonic in the bush - a Zambian
Juvenile spotted hyena
Through rain and shine, Puku Ridge provides top quality hospitality and unforgettable wildlife encounters in the South Luangwa Valley. They prioritise conservation, environmental sustainability and are committed to community development, adding to the meaning and value of choosing a safari here.
African buffalo
Accommodation in Lusaka:
Gillian Mclaren highly recommends Ciêla Resort and Spa - part of the Tribute Portfolio - 15 minutes away from Kenneth Kaunda International Airport and the Domestic Terminal. Set on 100 hectare estate, with an 18 hole golf course, several restaurants and bars, plus a 24 hour gym and sizeable swimming pool, it’s a great place for an overnight stay at the beginning and end of a Zambian safari. My room, one of 245, is stylish, light and airy, scrupulously clean and has a pleasing view of the manicured gardens. In-room dining is convenient, plus the spread at breakfast is substantial, including barista - made coffee from an espresso machine. The Zambian staff are consistently welcoming and warm.
Image courtesy of Ciêla Resort and Spa
Getting There
INTERNATIONAL TRAVEL:
Airlink, Southern Africa’s premier privately-owned regional airline serves more than 45 destinations in 15 African countries, as well as Madagascar and St. Helena Island, and offers worldwide connections through more than 35 airline partners. Discover More https://www.flyairlink.com/airlink-profile
Rewarding its loyal customers through Airlink’s innovative Skybucks frequent flyer program, travellers can sign up at www.skybucks.co.za Airlink is reliable and dependable with a fleet of more than 65 modern jets, a clear indication of their determination and commitment to remain synonymous with customer centricity, punctuality, service excellence, and reliability.
Travellers can also have the benefit of their intra-continental style business class service on select routes operating the magnificent Embraer E-195 / E-190 / E-170 / E-jets. Duty free shopping is available on select regional flights departing from Johannesburg only.
Business class, Full fare economy as well as Emerald and Black Tier Skybucks members can enjoy complimentary access to SLOW lounges and Bidvest Premier lounges where applicable.
Airlink operates daily direct flights between O.R. Tambo International Airport and Lusaka, Zambia’s capital city.
https://www.flyairlink.com/en-za/flights-to-lusaka
Book directly on www.flyairlink.com, the FlyAirlink app, or through your Travel agent.
Kenneth Kaunda International Airport is connected to many international destinations via regular, direct flights.
Local Travel:
Proflight Zambia
Daily Scheduled departures from Lusaka International to Mfuwe International Airport in a 29-seater Jetstream 41 aircraft. Puku Ridge Staff will be waiting to pick up guests & transfer to Puku Lodge.
https://proflight-zambia.com/
Text and images by Gillian McLaren (@Jetset_Gillian)
