There’s something magical about Thailand after sunset. Lemongrass, charcoal, something frying in oil nearby, and underneath it all, that warm evening air that Thailand does better than almost anywhere. UK travellers talk about the temples and the beaches and the sunsets, which are all deserved, but ask anyone who has spent real time in Thailand, and nine times out of ten, the food memories are what they actually go on about. Thailand Digital Arrival Card should be sorted before you land. It is quick to complete online and infinitely better than dealing with it exhausted upon arrival. Do it from your sofa and forget about it.
Bangkok is a city of contrast, with all its different faces and styles. If you've only seen it during the daylight, then you haven't seen the 'real' Bangkok - perhaps just half of it. At about 7 pm, it becomes a very different city, as the temperature drops ever so slightly and the streets, which were previously gridlocked and filled with chaos, start to loosen and feel more like a fabulous party to which you didn't know you had been invited.
Try to avoid the mainstream touristy parts of the city as much as possible and head to Talad Rot Fai Ratchada (or Train Night Market) in central Bangkok, which is a car parking lot that has little to impress anyone other than the locals who frequent it. As such, it attracts primarily Thai patrons, so you'll find yourself paying normal (Thai) prices and eating food that will have you stopping in your tracks when you only take one bite out of it. River prawns grilled on charcoal, slow-roasted pork trotters, and mango sticky rice that will probably be the best you've ever had. It's best to reach here with no plans and being hungry enough.
Also, if you're in Chatuchak, check out Or Tor Kor for a more curated experience. It has an incredible array of fresh produce. The fruit here, particularly the mangosteen and rambutan are absolutely amazing.
There is a version of Thailand travel where you rush through Chiang Mai on the way to somewhere else. Don’t do that. This city has a much different feel than Bangkok; It is much less busy and cooler, plus they have a greater tendency to allow you to adapt. The Sunday Walking Street (in Wualai) appears to be the primary source of food for most people and has an excellent purpose. It runs through the old silversmithing district, and the food vendors are nestled between craft vendors and temple walls in a way that seems unplanned. This is where you will find authentic Northern Thai food, which will leave you amazed. Khao Soi is something that everyone can’t stop raving about. It is a delicious coconut curry soup with egg noodles, choice of meat, crispy noodles, and a wedge of lime. It's not a choice, it's something to absolutely not miss out on. The night bazaar tradition in Southeast Asia has been a space for trade and community for centuries. Chiang Mai's markets still maintain the vibe, vendors are unhurried, and people greet each other across stalls. Something that happens regardless of whether you are there or not.
Naka Market is where most of Phuket's residents do their shopping on the weekends, primarily because of the seafood. Whole fish simply grilled over hot charcoals; oysters served only with lime juice and bird's eye chilis; and prawn cakes pressed and fried until they are crisp around the edges. The food served at these markets isn't complicated - nor does it have to be complicated.
Krabi Town's riverside market is smaller and quieter, running along the Krabi River with a pace that rewards anyone who has stopped rushing. Fewer tourists, better atmosphere, and the kind of meal that costs almost nothing and somehow tastes like the best thing you have eaten all trip. Krabi Town's riverside Market, running along the Krabi River, is more peaceful than Naka. It is perfect for someone who doesn’t want to rush. There are fewer tourists, a great vibe, and the lowest-priced meals you can find anywhere else. You're sure to find something there that you've never tasted before.
Bring small notes because vendors rarely have change. Eat when the locals eat, roughly seven to nine in the evening, when everything is freshest, and the energy is at its best. And if someone near you has something on their plate that looks incredible, just point at it. Every single time, without fail, it works.
The markets are not a feature of Thailand. In a lot of ways, they are the whole point.
