Stretching along Sea of Japan coast, Fukui is a quieter and often overlooked prefecture. Located between Tokyo and Kyoto, it’s an easy stop that rewards curious travelers. In this feature, we spotlight Fukui’s signature cuisine and distinctive accommodations, exploring the prefecture from north to south through food and hospitality.
Flavors That Shape Fukui
Fukui Prefecture is traditionally divided into two distinct regions: Reihoku in the north and Reinan in the south. This split reflects more than geography. Historically, Fukui was made up of two separate provinces—Echizen and Wakasa—and their different pasts continue to shape everyday life, especially the food. Terrain, climate, religious influence, and trade routes have all shaped each region’s culinary identity.
Seafood lies at the heart of Fukui’s cuisine. In the north, Reihoku faces the rugged Echizen Coast, where cold winter waters and complex currents create ideal conditions for marine life. From these waters comes Echizen crab, the region’s most celebrated winter delicacy. Often called the “king of crabs” in Fukui, Echizen crab is prized for its rich, refined flavor, firm yet tender meat, and generous amount of crab roe. Raised in the harsh coastal waters, its long legs and meatiness have earned it devoted fans across Japan. Its quality has been recognized for over a century, deemed worthy of serving the imperial household.
Reihoku’s food culture, however, is shaped not only by the sea but also by spirituality. The region is home to Eiheiji Temple, one of the two head temples of the Soto Zen tradition, and Buddhist practices have long influenced local eating habits. Shojin ryori, traditional vegetarian temple cuisine, is an important part of Reihoku’s culinary identity. Served as multiple small plates, each dish requires skillful preparation and careful attention to color, texture, and harmony. In Fukui, a particularly popular ingredient within this tradition is aburaage, or deep-fried tofu, which has long been a local staple.
To the south, Reinan opens onto Wakasa Bay, a ria coastline where warm and cold currents meet, producing a wide variety of fish year-round. The area was once known as Miketsukuni, or the land that supplied food to the imperial court. To transport seafood inland, locals developed preservation techniques. One iconic specialty is heshiko, fish—usually mackerel—salted and aged in rice bran. This preserved fish could be carried to Kyoto via the historic route now called the Saba Kaido (literally Mackerel Highway) which earned its nickname from the large quantities of salted mackerel shipped along it.
Reinan is also famous for Wakasa fugu, a premium tiger pufferfish cultivated in the calm, cold waters of Wakasa Bay. Slow growth in low-temperature waters produces meat that is firm, springy, and full of concentrated flavor. Subtly sweet and richly savory, Wakasa fugu offers a clean, refined taste. Long prized as a winter delicacy, it can now be enjoyed beyond the season thanks to advances in aquaculture and the ingenuity of local producers.
Together, Reihoku and Reinan showcase how Fukui’s food culture is shaped by history, belief, and the sea—two regions, each with a distinct voice, telling a shared culinary story.
Stays That Tell a Story
Fukui offers a range of accommodations that blend tradition and modern comfort, giving travelers a genuine sense of the region’s character. In the north, Reihoku provides stays that combine history, culture, and mindfulness.
Located about a five-minute walk from Eiheiji, Hakujukan is a temple-based retreat where guests can experience its world of Zene. Visitors can practice shakyo, the careful copying of Buddhist sutras, or participate in zazen meditation at Eiheiji, both of which help quiet the mind and restore balance. Early risers can walk to the temple to witness the monks’ morning chant, an experience both moving and peaceful as their voices drift softly through the air. The hotel’s indoor baths are fragrant and soothing, perfect for unwinding after a day of reflection. Meals feature shojin ryori and dishes made from seasonal local ingredients, providing a gentle introduction to Reihoku’s culinary heritage.
Also in Reihoku, Auberge Homachi Mikuni Minato offers a stay across a collection of restored traditional houses in Mikuni’s historic port district. The buildings preserve classic Japanese architectural features, from stone-paved entrances to original Edo-era wooden beams, evoking the town’s long history as a key stop for Kitamae-Bune trading route. Inside, the inn’s 16 guest rooms blend traditional charm with modern comforts, with each room offering a distinct atmosphere, creating an inviting and elegant environment. Guests can enjoy seasonal French cuisine at the separate restaurant, Tateru Yoshino Mikuniminato, where local ingredients are prepared with care and artistry. The inn also offers cultural experiences, from crafting your own chochin (traditional Japanese lantern) to trying your hand at playing the shamisen, allowing travelers to immerse themselves in the town’s heritage and seasonal rhythms.
In the south, Reinan highlights the calm beauty of Wakasa Bay. Wakasa Kajitsu sits in a quiet fishing village, framed by mountains and gentle coastal waters. Guests are greeted by sweeping views that shift with the changing light and seasons, creating a sense of quiet retreat. Each room at the inn is unique, from one with an infinity bath overlooking Wakasa Bay to another that gives the feeling of being surrounded by traditional tiled roofs, offering a one-of-a-kind stay. The inn also emphasizes regional flavors and traditions, serving meals that include the famous Wakasa fugu alongside other locally sourced specialties. The combination of natural surroundings, thoughtful accommodations, and carefully prepared cuisine offers travelers a relaxing and authentic experience.
For a more intimate countryside escape, Yao Kumagawa offers stays in fully renovated traditional homes where guests can truly settle in. Each home is designed for comfort and simplicity, encouraging relaxation while immersing visitors in local culture. Guests can take part in hands-on activities such as cooking regional dishes or joining a miso soup workshop, connecting with Wakasa’s culinary traditions in a personal, interactive way. The result is a quiet, immersive experience that highlights the region’s food, history, and natural beauty.
Whether seeking spiritual and historical reflection in the north or a coastal and cultural retreat in the south, Fukui’s accommodations offer experiences that weave together history, nature, and local flavors. Combined with the prefecture’s renowned cuisine—from temple-inspired meals to fresh seafood—every visit leaves a lasting impression of Japan’s quieter, captivating side.
For more information:
・Hakujukan: https://www.hakujukan-eiheiji.jp/en/index/
・Auberge Homachi Mikuni Minato: https://www.homachi.jp/
・Wakasa Kajitsu: https://wakasa-kajitsu.com/
・Yao Kumagawa: https://yao-kumagawa.com/
Discover Fukui, Find out more about Fukui Prefecture at https://www.fuku-e.com/en/
