My family and I just got back from a three-week exploration of Portugal. In the past, that would not have been a very remarkable statement, but in this emerging-from-pandemic world — it is not a common statement. We went to see family, and spend some time together. Being all vaccinated, it seemed like a good idea. There were hurdles, but it was well worth it.
We spent three weeks exploring the Alentejo. We saw Roman ruins, fighting bulls, horses, ruined castles, ancient towns, massive cork forests, Atlantic beaches, olive groves, wineries — and so many kind people.
The thing about the Alentejo is that it is the perfect place to escape to right now to have a unique experience and feel safe. There is so much hiking, open spaces, and uncrowded beaches — that this place that makes up 30% of Portugal with 5% of the country’s population seemed just right.
And, Portugal just passed the US in vaccination rates, and is on track to have 80% of the country fully vaccinated by fall. As a result, the plan is to relax all restrictions by October, 2021.
Air Travel
I first booked in late winter, and over the next 3 months we saw flights change some 6 times due to cancelations and schedule updates. And, while flights are easier to book now, just getting the flight was a challenge.
Getting PCR tests was not a challenge, but the price was a bit of a surprise. I found out that doing the test by mail costs less, but you have to get the timing right.
We flew Delta via Amsterdam. Service to Europe was just restarting, and the Delta check in agent told us our PCR tests were “the wrong ones,” luckily the Boston Logan clinic explained that the agent was wrong, and we were able to check in. But be sure you have the right test, and double check. As more flights go to Europe, these early issues will be resolved.
The flight was rather full, but passengers were very respectful, and all wore masks. Getting around Lisbon airport was pretty easy, and the car rental process was easy and automated. We were on the road quickly, and off to the Alentejo.
The People
While Portugal has passed the US in the percentage of the population vaccinated this summer, safety rules are still in place. Masks are worn indoors, and in busy outdoor areas. Most shops limit the number of people at a time, and while indoor dining is allowed, all wait staff wear a mask. A recent poll found that more than 90% of all Portuguese want to be vaccinated, and more than 70% feel that masks should be required. And, as vaccination rates rise, these measures will be scaled back. But, the nice thing is that it is clear that the Portuguese have a sense of collective good.
To be honest, we felt safer in Portugal than in the US. We stayed in smaller towns and rural inns, because we skipped Lisbon and headed straight to the Évora area, we found everything open, and the crowds were non-exist. At one point, we pretty much had the cathedral of Évora all to ourselves. We did find that booking a table in advance at popular eateries was a good idea — not because of crowds, but because of safety protocols in place. Meals were great as wait staff were all masked, and every eatery had spaced out tables.
We also found that the hotels we visited gladly took our CDC vaccination cards. We saw that many had rapid tests ready for guests who had not planned in advance. All the inns and rental places we stay at had enhanced cleaning, hand sanitizer offered, and easy check in.
So, the good news is that Portugal remains Portugal: Friendly, restful, and welcoming!
An example is the older man who walked us to an eatery we could not find in Arraiolos. Or, the potter who was proud of reviving a centuries old tradition. And, the chef whose food was an extension of his view on life. The inn owner whose art defines his farm.
Roads were open, as were museums, churches and monuments. Prices were quite fair, and cancellation policies were quite generous. We felt welcome, safe, warm, and happy. And one thing is for sure, the people of the Alentejo somehow are able to remember something about life that others have forgotten. We will be back.
* Jayme H. Simões is a travel blogger on Portugal. He grew up in Chicago but spent summers exploring Portugal with his family.
