After a five minute boat ride from the Zambezi National Park mainland of Zimbabwe, we approach Kandahar Private Island in the Zambezi River. Discreetly sheltered under spreading tree canopies, six Treehouse Suites are revealed. Lala Palm trees tower above the foliage line, silhouetted against the sky. Built on stilts, each timber and glass structure juts out over the water of this iconic African River.
Image by Gillian McLaren
Arriving at the dock of Victoria Falls River Lodge - Island Tree House Suites, we are received with warmth and enthusiasm by Sanette Jonker, the stylish manager. Escorted to our accommodation along the wooden walkway that links the communal areas to the suites, we spot elephants browsing. This winding boardwalk has been constructed high enough to allow elephants, hippos and other game to pass freely between the island and the water, on their ancestral pathways. With bobbing heads, Vervet monkeys watch us as we watch them. Scores of yellow butterflies and brightly-colored beetles dance on flowering shrubs. Thick liana vines form bridges in the forest canopy creating a tropical jungle-like feel and providing a path for Tree squirrels.
With gasps and exclamations of awe, we take in the sublime views of river and forest from every vantage point of our suite, with its plate glass windows and doors. Our bedroom sports a California King sized bed with white linen and a stone-colored throw, under a draped mosquito net. The sitting area has grey and fawn colored cushions on white canvas deck chairs, with a rug of black and white squares on a pale strip-wood floor. A telescope is provided to watch game and birds, or the myriads of stars that appear, in the absence of city lights. The sheet glass doors concertina open, blurring the lines between indoor and outdoor living. In Feng Shui tradition, the design from front door though to the deck allows for free flow of air and for maximum natural light.
Image by Victoria Falls River Lodge
Zen principles continue in our ensuite bathroom, where twin rain showers look out over a freestanding stone bathtub, to the Zambezi, through doors that fold right open to the elements. On the deck, an outside shower is positioned next to a circular plunge pool. In front of the bedroom area, the verandah deck is covered by a wooden-strip latilla ceiling, for shade.
Image by Victoria Falls Island Lodge
Atop our suite, accessed by wooden stairs, is an open air Starbed and rooftop sitting area. During the day it serves as an elevated vantage point, above the trees, to watch the flow of the river and the occasional passing boat. Ideal for sleeping under the Milky Way, the four-poster bed can be made up, under a mosquito netting canopy. Expect some unusual game sightings, as elephants - for example - are surprisingly adept swimmers. They forge the Zambezi with splashing, then swim across to another island, hoisting their trunks like snorkels on an SUV! Mother elephants help the calves that are still learning what their trunks are for. During the night, hippos grunt, groan and honk. You may hear the call of an owl as it tries to attract a mate, or defend its territory. A night under the stars can bring an increased awareness of the nuances of nature, quite different from being in the bush during the day, or sleeping in an air-conditioned space.
Among the most spectacular waterfalls of the world, Victoria Falls is a UNESCO World Heritage Site. In the local dialect, the falls are called Mosi-oa-Tunya, meaning ‘the smoke that thunders.’ The spray plume of up to 1640 ft, is easily seen from the vantage point of our plush river cruise boat, on the sunset cruise from Victoria Falls River Lodge - Island Tree House Suites. The splendid orange light - edging the horizon and suffusing the clouds - is reflected in the river water, as we sip our evening tipple of choice. On the shore of a small island, we spot a ponderous hippo, out of the water to graze, safe from the sunlight that can damage its skin. An aged African buffalo bull, stands immobile, chewing the cud. A Pied Kingfisher hovers, then dives kamikaze-style to catch a small fish. As this is part of the Zambezi National Park area, we have to get back to the lodge before darkness sets in.
Before our dinner, guests gather in the bar, with its panoramic view of lambent moonlight on the water. Chatting about our day, we take pleasure in fine South African wines and taste one of the craft gins with tonic. The atmosphere of the lodge is relaxed and casual. On our first evening we dine at table for two, having eyes only for each other. Later in our stay, we join tables with our new-found US friends, for lively conversation, debate and fine cuisine.
The grilled tilapia with French fries that I had chosen from the lunch menu, was so tasty, that I order it again for breakfast! It’s tempting to linger in the alfresco dining area, on the edge of the river, where a Fish eagle is calling. However, our interest piqued by the impressive size of the spray cloud over the Victoria Falls, we are keen to visit the gorge, to walk along the edge. After the a brief boat ride from the Island Suites to the River Lodge jetty, it’s a ten minute drive to Victoria Falls and the Rain Forest. Massive volumes of water cascade over a basalt rock ledge, 354 ft down to a whirlpool. The mighty roar of the falls can be heard up to 25 miles away. From the Zimbabwean side, the main falls can be seen for most of the year, in varying degrees of strength, depending on the season. One of the Seven Natural Wonders of The World, this is the widest waterfall at 5604 ft. In an unspoiled and under-commercialized area, Mosi-oa-Tunya is well worth a special trip from anywhere in the world.
Game drives leave from Victoria Falls River Lodge, driving us directly into Zambezi National Park. Spotted hyena dash across the road, jackals bob in the savannah, elephants eat continuously as we watch them. The resident leopard has left his tracks in the mud. Baobab trees thrive here, with some having reached an estimated age of over 1000 years.
With its proximity to the Victoria Falls and position on the Zambezi River, Victoria Falls River Lodge - Island Tree House Suites, is a quality choice for a Zimbabwean safari. For its seclusion, personal butler service, elegant suites and superb cuisine, the lodge is a hideaway for honeymooners, a setting for celebrations. Image by Victoria Falls River Lodge
https://victoriafallsriverlodge.com/island-treehouse-suites/
For more travel features by Gillian McLaren (@Jetset_Gillian): www.gillianmclaren.blogspot.com
