Standing outside the Teleferic Grand Hotel, a chocolate-brown, wooden, chalet-style building whose balconies are decorated with pretty, brightly coloured flowers, you could be mistaken for thinking you were in the Swiss or Austrian Alps, or the Dolomites region of northern Italy. But rather than those globally famous destinations, we’re in Brașov, one of the best and most popular regions in Romania for skiing. In the summer months, when we visit, the area is far quieter, but the majestic mountains still offer fantastic opportunities for hiking, biking and parasailing, or just for taking in memorably beautiful scenery.
We fly into Brașov-Ghimbav International Airport. Many travellers that pass through the airport are heading for Bran Castle, to the south, set on the cliffs of south-east Transylvania, which has been connected with the myths and stories about Dracula, despite the fact that Bram Stoker never visited Romania or the castle, and that 15th-century ruler Vlad the Impaler, who helped inspire the book, never lived at the castle. But we’re here for relaxation, rather than scary stories of blood-sucking.
We drive on the mountain road to Poiana Brașov, Romania’s largest ski resort, a lively place, where a cable car runs up to the mountaintops and businesses rent out ski and mountain biking gear, and pull up at the Teleferic. As on the exterior, there’s a lot of wood used in the hotel interior, including the grand lobby, which has a roaring fire, alpine cowbells hung on the walls, gleaming golden chandeliers, and a quiet bar area, as well as a games room for kids tucked away in a corner.
Our spacious family bedroom has a wooden balcony lined with red and pink geraniums, which looks out to the surrounding peaks and forests. The rooms have a clean, natural look, with wooden walls, solid, silent wooden floors, and wooden beams along the white-washed ceiling. A big, comfy double bed in one room is framed with wooden units, while an adapted sofa bed has been set up in the lounge area for our young son, alongside a wooden desk, which contains a fridge with cold drinks. On the walls are photos and paintings of local mountain scenes, though the room is sparsely decorated - cosy but uncluttered. Just off the main bedroom, a slate grey, tiled bathroom has a rainshower, bathtub and marble sink.
The restaurant has a grand restaurant with white tablecloths and plush red chairs, but we eat most of our meals on the outdoor terrace, where there’s warm sunshine, parasols and nearby forest greenery. The menu has plenty of appealing options to choose from without needing to make any repeats during the stay, including regional fare, such as pork knuckle, tripe soup and polenta with cheese and sour cream, and global cuisine, from Italian to Filipino. For lunch one day, I go for the tuna tartare, chunky rectangles of tuna coated in sesame seeds, then a classic Thai Tom Yum Soup with shrimp and lots of spicy heat. For dinner one night, I try the hearty, teriyaki-marinated Atlantic salmon, which comes with basmati rice that’s mixed with cranberries and pine nuts. While my wife enjoys the likes of spaghetti carbonara and lamb shank with polenta, spinach and dried tomatoes, our son’s favourite pick of the menu is probably the dessert of glazed donuts or the selections of ice cream from the on-hand cart.
Breakfast, served inside the 4 Anotimpuri (4 Seasons) restaurant, a large, high-ceilinged hall, is also geared up nicely for both adults and children, the counters filled with an array of fresh fruit, cereals, meats and cheeses, a bucket of chilled Prosecco, hot dishes and more, but also with a chocolate fountain and chocolate-dipped apples. A chef at the omelette station cooks up fresh orders, and staff across the restaurant are friendly helpful and speedy with service.
We also visit Brașov Old Town itself, around half an hour’s drive away. One of Romania’s best-preserved medieval centres, it’s a lovely area to walk around, the mostly whitewashed and pastel-hued buildings topped with terracotta roofs. We take in Piața Sfatului (Council Square), a lively central square with a water fountain and, at the heart of it, the former Council House (Casa Sfatului) with its striking clock tower. Next to the square is the impressive Black Church (Biserica Neagră), one of the largest Gothic churches in Eastern Europe. As well as wandering through charming little streets and alleys, we take a short tourist ‘train’ ride from the main square around the heart of the city.
Afterwards, we walk up through the park and catch the cable car up to the top of Mount Tâmpa to have lunch at Panoramic Restaurant, up at 960 metres of elevation. My wife and I share a vegetarian platter, which includes dips of charcoal-roasted aubergine and red peppers, and mashed white beans with caramelised onions, which we heap onto little slices of toasted sourdough. I order the turbot fillet, which comes with baby potatoes, asparagus sauce and a lemony sauce. My wife is a fan of the rich creamy wild mushroom risotto with parmesan and black truffle sauce, and our son happily tucks into strips of beef tenderloin. Desserts are also fantastic – we share a warm chocolate soufflé with a perfectly gooey liquid centre and a scoop of vanilla ice cream, and the Panoramic Tart, a light cheesecake-esque slice with yuzu, a peanutty base and thin slices of pear on top. The dishes are refined and creative, and the staff are welcoming but the view is the undeniable star of the show. From the long window that runs across the front of the restaurant, we look down over the Old Town, the sprawling modern city, and the sweeping Carpathian mountains far across from us.
Most of our time, though, is spent in and around our hotel. One morning, we take the cable car from the edge of Poiana Brașov, just a short walk away, up to the top of Postăvaru Mountain, to take in the magnificent views of thickly forested hills and peaks from an altitude of around 1775 metres. We spend hours in the hotel’s pools too, including a peaceful, deep blue indoor swimming pool and two, large, bubbling hot tubs on the outdoor deck, a fine way to unwind and recharge batteries, whether you’re here in the snowy season or summer sun.
Rooms at Teleferic Grand hotel cost from £195 to £460 (subject to change): telefericgrandhotel.ro.
For Panoramic Restaurant, see www.panoramicbrasov.ro.
For more on Brașov, see romaniatourism.com.
