Beneath towering baobabs, on iron-oxide laden sand and a grassy plain, lies Lolkisale Camp. This TopGuides Bush Camp in Tarangire National Park Tanzania, is sited on the edge of an open wetland, deep in the savannah, making it remote, intimate and exclusive. A boutique camp, Lolkisale has seven custom-made tents set far apart for solitude and privacy. A feng shui design promotes air flow and light through the floor to ceiling screens, which also maximises the glorious views. An elephant herd ambles past my canvas-covered verandah, using their agile trunks to encircle grass tufts, or to browse on branches from an umbrella thorn tree. A tiny calf - with still floppy trunk - tries to emulate its mother to eat grass, but soon moves closer to her to be nursed.
Lolkisale is a Maasi word for longevity. The tribespeople, now living just outside the park, are known for the many that live for over 100 years. I can see Lolkisale hill from the camp precincts.
Image by Gillian McLaren
Each stylish but simple tent has a plush king-sized bed with 100% cotton linen and a pastil yellow throw, side tables, a desk with ample electrical sockets, and a table with two chairs facing the territory of a Kirk’s dik-dik pair and numerous antelope. Hand-woven rugs, laundry baskets, lamp shades and wooden furniture - all in neutral hues - are all made by local people, to support small business and to promote the Tanzanian economy. No plastic is used at Lolkisale Camp. The en-suite bathroom has an indoor shower with wood panelling, a toilet and twin stone basins with illuminated mirrors. A simple wooden rail plus three shelves serve for hanging or folded garments. My favourite part of my tent is the outdoor shower, with inlaid stone floor and splendid view of the bush. Biodegradable amenities with a subtle fragrance add to the sensual delights of this space. A 2-way radio is provided to contact staff in emergencies, like fancying an artisanal gin and tonic.
As I favour al fresco meals, I choose to sit outside for my lunches and dinners under the ancient baobab canopy, despite the tented dining area, with its open sides and calming minimalist decor. The enthusiastic chef concocts a curry for me when he hears that I enjoy Indian food, chilies and home-made atcha chutney. It’s delectable. Such is the personal attention showered on each guest in this edenic camp. Freshly baked muffins with crispy tops and the fluffy bread prove irresistible, especially when savoured on a bush breakfast stop, with music courtesy of some of the 500+ species of birds.
One evening - as it sit by the fire pit gazing into the flames and sipping a superior South African Pinotage - my Maasai guard quietly alerts me to the presence of an elephant bull. Mesmerised by this silent pachyderm as he watches me, I am overwhelmed at the privilege of being immersed in nature this way.
The common lounge area, tented but open-sided, sports a well stocked bar, couches and a selection of coffee table books. The barman can dazzle up a cocktail or serve Tanzanian tea or their rich coffee brew.
Maasai giraffe eating a Candelabra Euphorbia by Gillian McLaren
Tarangire National Park is liberally dotted with baobab trees of all sizes and configurations that are used by elephants as rubbing posts and a source of cambium from the bark. These giant ‘upside down trees’ regenerate tissue quickly, so are adapted to survive the onslaught. Silhouetted against the sunset, the baobab fruit and shaggy straw nests of superb starling are like Christmas decorations.
In the dry season, elephants dig down through the sandy bed of the Tarangire River to find water. In the wet season the when the river is in full spate, water overflows into the Silali Swamps that sponge up the liquid to stay green for the whole year. Hundreds of elephants aggregate here to drink and to graze on the sweet marshy grass. Regular sightings in the Silale Swamps include the tree climbing lions, African wild dogs, Maasai giraffe and Grant’s zebra with their particularly pretty patterned coat. Enormous rock pythons leave the swamp area in the dry season, to avoid being damaged by the migration of herd animals - like wildebeest - into the area. They are frequently seen constricting and demolishing even large animals!
The Silale Swamps are an elysium for birders, as it’s a massive breeding area for avifauna. I record 57 new species, including black-faced sandgrouse, yellow -throated sandgrouse, red-cheeked cordon bleu and Von der Decken’s hornbill . My guide patiently finds each of my ‘lifers’ in his East African field guide, so I can learn about their characteristics, behaviour and X. An astounding and amusing sighting for me is a pair of ostriches with 37 young ones in their charge.
Image by Jay Roode
Arguably the most beautiful National Park in Tanzania, Tarangire is not to be missed. Lolkisale Camp is charming, luxurious in its gentle simplicity and perfectly positioned for detailed observation of animal behaviour, even from the comfort of my bed! It’s an enriching experience being cared for by kind Tanzanian staff that are sensitive to my individual preferences. I will miss the sweet Kirk’s dik-dik pair that neatly leave their tip-of-a match sized dung on a tiny midden near my tent.
https://www.topguidesbushcamps.com
Getting There
Air Excel is an owner-run charter company based in Arusha, offering both scheduled and charter services, to the major tourist hubs of Tanzania. For an interesting road trip experience through Maasi settlements, TopGuides organises transfers by air-conditioned vehicle.
https://www.airexcelonline.com
