Yala National Park, in arid south-east Sri Lanka, covers 386 square miles, across five blocks. Bordering the Indian Ocean, the park comprises diverse ecosystems ranging from moist monsoon forests to freshwater and marine wetlands.This National Park has the highest density of leopards in the world, making sightings highly likely. The endangered native leopard subspecies, Panthera pardus kotiya, vies with the Persian leopard, Panthera pardus saxicolous, for the title of the largest leopard on planet earth. As leopards are the apex predator in Sri Lanka, in the absence of lions and tigers, they grow to massive sizes, with males weighing up to 200 pounds. With no competition or predator danger, leopards don’t have to carry their kills up into trees like they do in Africa, so these usually elusive big cats can be spotted on the roads.
Image by Gillian McLaren
A leopard reputed to be the biggest in Yala National Park has not been seen for eight months, but during our game drive, we are informed by fellow safari enthusiasts that he has been found. Our driver is spurred on by Noel Rodrigo - founder and managing director of Leopard Safaris - to locate this reputedly beautiful cat. A row of jeeps alerts us to the special sighting, so we join an orderly queue of 5 vehicles. His size is astounding, with paws the size of a lion’s and a usually thick neck, plus his pelt has the gloss of a leopard in its prime, with perfect rosettes. I wonder whether he might be the most sizeable leopard in the world? Noel Rodrigo, known as The Leopard Man, who has offered luxury clamping in Yala since 2006, is richly informed about the leopards and declares that this is the most impressive male he has seen so far.
As Leopard safaris is sited on the border of Yala National Park, it is well positioned for their customised Toyota Land Cruisers to reach the entry gates in good time, to be at the front of any queue. I’m visiting out of season, when numbers of vehicles are lower. Morning safaris are time to enjoy the first light, with the golden glow for photographing mammals like the Sri Lankan elephant. This elephant subspecies, Elephas maximus maximus, is the largest Asian elephant and native to Sri Lanka, which has the highest density of elephants in Asia. Some elephants move outside the National Parks into surrounding jungle areas. When they stray onto the roads, these pachyderms are nonchalant about buses, lorries, cars, tuk-tuks and motorbikes. A female on the national road outside Yala, is well known.
Sri Lankan elephants have distinct patches of depigmentation on their ears, face, trunk and belly. Sadly all female elephants are now tusk-less. There is great excitement when a “tusker” male is spotted, as only 6% of males grow tusks. The name does not refer to huge size of tusks, as it does in Africa, it simply indicates their presence. It’s a joyful experience to see a tusker in Yala and encouraging that there are some of these precious genes left in the population. Hunting in the past selected out most of the individuals with tusks and nearly caused the population to become extinct.
Another thrill in Yala is to find a Sri Lankan sloth bear, the subspecies Melursus ursinus inornatus that is highly endangered, with an estimated 1000 left in the country. Noel assures me that this bear was misnamed by the British, as it has inordinately long sickle-shaped claws, but they are actually busy, energetic and noisy. The appearance of their black fur is shaggy and disheveled. As the sloth bear is dependent on natural forests - for its diet of nuts, berries, carrion and insects from decaying stumps and trees - destruction of lowland forests continues to threaten their numbers. Humans have hunted them for food and products such as their bacula - penis bone - or their claws. Usually solitary and mostly nocturnal, they can be seen after rains, when they dig into the usually hard termite mounds to slurp up termites using their specially adapted lower lip and palate. We see one climbing an ironwood tree in search of food, right at the gate of Yala block 5.
Noel and his naturalists at Leopard Safaris know the behaviour patterns and territories of many of the animal species, so are adept at tracking them for guests. The wild is unpredictable, of course, so each sighting is a privilege. There are constant surprises in Yala. We find two Golden jackals that have hunted a spotted deer and are feasting on the carcass, then a Changeable Hawk-eagle capturing and devouring a Great cormorant.
Next to a fast-flowing river, with mature trees for shade, we alight from the vehicle to stretch our legs, enjoy fine Sri Lankan tea with snacks and look for birds. Avian diversity includes 215 bird species, with six endemic to Sri Lanka. For birders who record their first time sightings, or “lifers”, Yala is a trove of “mega-ticks”. Sri Lankan jungle fowl - the national bird of Sri Lanka - is an endemic species that is easily seen. The male sports dramatic burnt-orange plumage, with a large red comb and glossy purple- black tail. A Sri Lanka grey hornbill is feeding its chicks with red berries, from outside their hole-in-the-tree nest. It has no casque, unlike the Malabar pied hornbill that has such an enormous casque I wonder how it can keep its balance. Despite the noisy, incessant call, of the endemic Crimson-fronted barbet, we battle to see the bird.
Its easy to spend hours at waterholes, tanks and rock pools, or at the reservoir in Yala 1, to gaze at the array of waterbirds and the gregarious Wild water buffalo as they cavort in the water. It seems as if they enjoy themselves as they dive down, submerge and resurface, often with egrets or herons riding on their backs, to feed on parasites and to catch easily insects. These Wild water buffalo have wide, splayed hooves, so they can move easily in mud without sinking. They look similar to the domesticated water buffalo that provide delicious curd, one of the delectable desserts at Leopard safaris, served with Jaggery - sugar made from palm sap.
We stop at each waterhole to look for Painted storks, Wooly-necked storks, and perhaps a rare Lesser Adjutant stork. Wild peafowls are common and entertain us as the peacocks spread their panoply of tail feathers and engage in an elaborate dance to impress the peahens. At this time of the year they are losing their splendid plumage. We are amused to watch a peacock with literally one feather left, that is still trying his luck with the peahens in a meagre display. Females raise their colourless tail feathers in defense when they feel threatened by another bird species.
Noel was responsible for constructing one of the waterholes, Walas Wala - Little Bear - which helps animals survive during the dry months. In addition, he has supported the anti-poaching units and donated six toilets for guest use.
Back at Leopard Safaris camp, a salt-water swimming pool brings relief from the heat, before lunch is served in a shady spot. Each meal is presented at a table set in a different part of the jungle-like surroundings, or in front of the waterhole under a cover of woven palm leaves. From Sri Lankan breakfast of hoppers, to dinner with an array of traditional Sri Lankan curries, the food is consistently excellent.
The immersion in nature does not stop in Yala. In the precincts of Leopard Safaris camp Grey langurs play in the trees and clouds of butterflies sup from the wildflowers. As I sit on the wooden chair outside my air-conditioned tent, a juvenile land monitor idles past with characteristic sigmoid movement and a pair of Paradise flycatchers take turns on their nest.
In a meaningful ceremony on my last afternoon, I am invited to plant a Terminali arjuna sapling and to water it. Time at Leopard Safaris is enriching, entertaining and educational.
https://leopardsafaris.com/ Highly Recommended Accommodation in Colombo
Lake Lodge, a Nyne Hotel, is a 10-room artistically decorated boutique hotel, located in a tranquil garden, in an upscale hub in Colombo centre, near to Beira Lake. For fine dining, enjoy a Sri Lankan or International meal in the airy Table by Nyne. Take a stroll, to spot Sri Lankan flying fox roosting in the trees, land monitor, plus bird species including endemics like White-bellied sea-eagle, Crimson-fronted barbet, or Sri Lanka swallow.
https://nynehotels.com/lake-lodge/
Granbell Hotel on Marine drive in the Business centre, has 292 scrupulously clean rooms, each with spectacular ocean views or cityscapes. Decor and design blend Japanese minimalism with Sri Lankan elements. Dining options include in-room, Minori Japanese and All Day Dining Restaurant, plus Café EN. Watch a sunset from the roof top infinity pool, or Bar on the Top. Perfect for an overnight stay before flying, or for a business trip, Granbell service is efficient and reliable.
https://granbellhotel.lk/
